Maligned for many years as cheap Italian fizz Lambrusco is making a comeback in the past few years. Is it because we are seeing more of it in Canada or has quality dramatically improved? That is a difficult question as we see so little Lambrusco who knows the reality. But the rare bottle that drifts our way is far from cheap fizz at least most of the time.
We try a Labrusca Lini 919 with a refreshing alcohol content of 11%. It has a frightening purple colour that reminds one of Canada’s own cheaper than cheap Baby Duck. However let’s not get stuck in our past. On the nose sweet black currant, black plum and Welch’s grape juice. On the palate it certainly is fizzy! It does not have the bite of a Prosecco or a traditional method sparkler. Notes of ginger, rhubarb and yes grape juice. It simply can’t escape its grapey nature. A noticeable tannic streak. I have had better Lambrusco’s. Geez as I think Baby Duck is still produced a blind tasting with this Lambrusco might be in order. I think this might suit a Huevos Rancheros in a sort of weird way.
(Labrusca Lambrusco Rosso Lini 910 Reggiano DOP, Lambrusco Rosso Secco, Lini Oreste & Figli, Correggio, Italy, $19.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 632208, 750 mL, 11%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 84/100).