RKS 2023 Wine: The Dual Personality of Canadian Rieslings and Mayhem’s 2022 Riesling Amid It!

Yes I struggle mightily with Ontario Riesling. It can make some absolutely remarkable sparkling wine but as a still table wine it is frequently overly dry and unpleasant to drink reminding me of early season grapefruit.

I haven’t had a boatload of British Columbia Rieslings for two reasons. Here in Ontario we have a terrible case of tokenism for British Columbia wines. The Liquor Control Board of Ontario kneels at the feet of California wine worshipping it shamelessly in its retail offerings. Yet British Columbia due north of darling Napa and Sonoma is simply ignored. No there is no affirmative action for British Columbia wines here in Ontario. I have a sneaking suspicion Ontario wines are also subject to British Columbia tokenism. I also have yet to be invited on a press trip to try the wines and foods of British Columbia. The EU in that regard is far more generous and astute. Canada should appoint a most special “rapporteur” to investigate!

The fruit was whole bunch pressed. Mayhem and its sister winery Meyer Family Vineyards are not adverse to ageing whites in neutral oak and this Riesling was aged in 27% neutral barrique and 73% stainless steel.

So bearing the scars of too many failed tastings of Ontario Rieslings and encouraged by the Mayhem technical sheet about their 2022 Riesling stating it has 17.55 grams of residual sugar per litre I am expecting a more Germanic than Ontario experience?

Aroma: Impressive notes of apricot, peach, tangerine, orange marmalade and thank goodness secondary notes of lime and lemon. This is no Ontario Riesling refugee!

Palate: Off dry but not on the high end.! Acidity most pleasant instead of raging. There is some sweet white grapefruit. Finishes off nicely with honey, butter and guava.

Personality: I am from the Okanagan but have more affinity with the Germans than with the Ford Nation.

Food Match: The winery suggests lemon chicken skewers with a Moroccan harissa seasoning sauce or Thai carrot and ginger soup topped with fresh herbs. I would also suggest a mushroom, fresh pea and zucchini risotto.

Cellarbility: Drink by the end of 2027.

Price: $20.97 (British Columbia). Check with the winery about retail availability and shipping.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 90/100. Bcwinetrends.com 91.

(Mayhem 2022 Naramata Bench Okanagan Valley Riesling, B.C. VQA, produced and bottled under WL # 302084, Okanagan Falls, British Columbia, 750 mL, 11.9%).

Published by Robert K Stephen (CSW)

Robert K Stephen writes about food ,drink, travel, film, and lifestyle issues. He also has published serialized novels "Life at Megacorp", "Virus # 26, "Reggie the Egyptian Rescue Dog" and "The Penniless Pensioner" Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden and the University of Toronto. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he has established this publication. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write."

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