The Big Red at Big Head Wines, about 15 minutes from St Davids, Ontario (on 823 Line 6 Road) in the Niagara-on-the-Lake region was sold out of Big Red # 7 when I last visited the winery in November 2022 but they had a half bottle left and poured a glass for me. It left a positive impression. Apparently, area restaurants snap up Big Red as it was reasonably priced and good. I managed to squeak in a quick visit to Big Head wines a few days ago and was delighted that son of Big Red # 7 otherwise known as Big Red # 8 was in ample supply and it has increased in price a few dollars to $25 CDN.
The 49% Merlot and 48% Cabernet Franc were dried for 12 weeks and then crushed (appassimento) and 3% Petit Verdot was added. The wine is non vintage.
Owner Andrezj Lipinski is proud of his big head hence the name of the winery Big Head! As the label states, “Big Wine We Drink. Big Family We Love. Big Head We Have.”
Aroma: Big black cherry attack enveloped in a smoky frame accented by a bit of cola. A melange of spices it being hard to identify the individual spices.
Palate: The smoke continues with brackish black cherry and a touch of dark chocolate which intensifies on the long finish. A bit of višnja maraska. More than a mere hint of Valpolicella Ripasso here.
Personality: I am told by RKS Wine that Ontario Merlot is a lost cause but, in this case, appassimento has given Ontario Merlot a new lease on life. Wine snobs stop shivering and quivering about this being a non-vintage and a non-VQA wine. It is a combination of 2019 and 2021 harvests. Yes I am a mixie! Perhaps the big head reference is due the size of Andrezj’s clever brain and not his head.
Cellarbility: With its moderate tannins will cellar nicely until 2026.
Price: $25 CDN possibly remarkable due to its 97% appassimento pedigree.
Food Match: Lake Erie perch filets in a spicy mesquite tomato sauce over jasmine rice.
RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 91/100.
(Big Head Red # 8, Big Head Wines, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 13.5%, 750 mL).
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