RKS 2023 Wine: Bachelder Wismer Foxcroft 2021 Gamay Noir: Ontario Gamay Noir Establishing Itself in Ontario

I encountered Thomas Bachelder last Sunday at Toronto Hot Docs Theatre for a showing of “Crush; Message in a Bottle” and we exchanged brief pleasantries. Bachelder, Kelly Mason, Shiraz Mottiar and Anne-Marie Saunders were expressing their views as to growing grapes and making wine in the Niagara region of Ontario. I expressed my agreement with Balchelder’s comments made in the documentary Ontario winemaking is in in its infancy. It was only in the 1970’s that Ontario became serious about moving on from Baby Duck to something more serious. After all it took the monks of Burgundy hundreds of years to “perfect” Pinot Noir. So when I try a Niagara Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and even for many Pinot Noirs I wince. Growing pains?

Bachelder has made his mark in France, Oregon and Ontario with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and now with Gamay Noir. My views as to Niagara red wine is that Gamay and Cabernet Franc are in the game for Ontario wine excellence. Perhaps Gamay is behind Cabernet Franc in this game but not that far behind. Kudos to Shiraz Mottiar and Martin Malivoire of Malivoire Wines in Ontario for championing and experimenting with Gamay. Mottiar has the nickname of the King of Gamay in Ontario.

Now what about Bachelder Wismer Foxcroft 2021 Gamay Noir?

Aroma: Clean and pure is the name of the game here. Is this the Bachelder philosophy of wild yeast and low intervention speaking to us? In addition to the bright red cherry, blackberry, red currant, root beer and a gentle waft of healing smudge.

Palate: A bit of clinging minerality and acidity entangled with white pepper. Acidity in my book in red wine should be discrete and a backroom player like a quiet and wise investor banking and betting on this wine. However Bachelder may escape my early warning acidity system perhaps because of the counter balance of tannins boosted by 33% whole cluster composition. Blackberry and raspberry. Long spicy finish.

Personality: This writer has noted my acidity but I hope he understands that acidity is a natural component of all wine and that not all wine is meant to be consumed on its own. My acidity suits certain foods. I urge the writer here to not confuse acidity with minerality.

Food Match: The wine has spoken! A “foodie wine”. I’d pair with sauces made with local field tomatoes such as a Lasagna replacing the meat with Cremini mushrooms and Ontario Swiss Chard. As field tomatoes are no longer in season I would replace non-existent field tomatoes with Ontario canned tomatoes as opposed to less acidic Italian tomatoes.

Cellarbility: Sorry the acidity has me a bit worried and perhaps my sensitivity to it should be disclosed here! But could the acidity be more minerality than acidity! Bachelder recommends consuming between 2024-29. I say consume by the end of 2025. I respect Bachelder tremendously but the acidity (or minerality) has me concerned.

Price: $29.95 CDN (Ontario).

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 87/100. Rick VanSickle 94.

(Bachelder Single Vineyard Wismer Foxcroft Vineyard 2021 33% Whole Cluster Gamay Noir, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Bachelder, Beamsville, Ontario, 750 mL, 12.5%).