Unfortunately, in Ontario we receive only a small amount of Greek red wine and that which has flowed our way on the retail shelves of our state liquor monopoly fails to impress much of it Xinomavro if not aged sufficiently can be unpleasantly tannic.
I was piqued when I saw this Dyo Elies from the administrative area of Greece, Macedonia. Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city, is in Macedonia. Much smaller than Athens it is a rich gastronomic, cultural, historical and coffee and cocktail obsessed city. I can’t recall any European city where so many delicious aromas permeate the air. On my last visit there at Thessaloniki restaurants very little wine could be seen but rather cocktails the younger set is clearly in love with. In the restaurants serving up some of the city’s best food it will be the “old guard” and tourists you see drinking wine.
This Dyo Elies is 70% Syrah and 30% Merlot. No Greek indigenous grapes here! Some earlier vintages had a small amount of Xinomavro in the blend. The wine spent 14 months in 225 litre French and American oak and a further 8 months in the bottle.
Aroma: Although the Merlot here is in the minority it shows its gratitude about its inclusivity by asserting its soft character and a distinctive toasty tinge oaked Merlot can lend to a wine. The Syrah adds some spiciness to the blackberry and black cherry aromatics.
Palate: Full bodied with unique cedar, carob, coffee and licorice interlopers but as for fruit blackberry doesn’t want to leave the show. The Syrah leaves some white pepper and at 14.5% alcohol the wine is a bit hot, not James Cagney “White Heat” but it is noticeable. Moderate broad-based tannins.
Personality: I mean business. Nothing flippant or exhibitionist about me. I am built for food and nothing light and frivolous please.
Food Match: Pastitso.
Cellarbility: Drink by 2026-year end.
Price: $28.20 CDN (Ontario) as a manager discount otherwise a steep $35.45.
RKS 2024 Wine Rating: 91/100.
(Dyo Elies 2018, PGI Imathia, Kir-Yanni, Naoussa, Greece, 750 mL, 14.5%).
