Tired of Argentinian Malbec in your red wine glass. Is there hope for Argentinian Criolla?
The wine we are trying is Criolla Grande and it has a bad rep. In Karen MacNeil’s “Wine Bible” (second edition) the grape is described as follows: “A widely planted if undistinguished, pinkish-skinned grape related to other criollas, but its parents are unknown. It is used to make coarse, bland white and rosé wines sold on the Argentine domestic market in jugs or cardboard cartons, or in bulk.”
This was fermented and aged in concrete. I do not think it can withstand oak.
Aroma: Lots of red cherry with lesser intensity strawberry, raspberry and milk chocolate. I might refer to this as a timid wine if polite or if less diplomatic weak-kneed.
Palate: Easy drinking with minimal tannins and acidity. A good grip and a long lingering spicy finish. And it is in the finish that fruit starts a gentle swell with notes of stewed rhubarb and diluted raspberry and red cherry.
Personality: Whomever dared called me a jug wine! I am easy drinking. Not fancy but certainly not supermarket plonk. Consider me a castrated Gamay Noir or Pinot Noir.
Food Match: Sautee garlic and a handful of shallots then a glug of this wine not forgetting a good sprinkling of oregano. Add enough tomatoes that you feel comfortable with then cooked and chopped rapini. Simmer for 15 minutes. Serve over linguine with grated aged cheddar cheese. Might do well as an outdoor wine (served chilled) at a summer barbeque.
Cellarbility: Consume by 2024-year end.
Price: $21.95 CDN (Ontario).
RKS 2024 Wine Rating: 86/100.
(Finca Feliz Tesoro Criolla 2022, Mendoza, Argentina, Bodega Finca Feliz, Mendoza, Argentina, 750 mL, 12.5%).
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