Finding great Ontario Cabernet Franc is not that difficult. The same can’t be said for Merlot. Most of the time it is bland. Merlot from Niagara’s Two Sisters and Featherstone Estate are bright beacons for Ontario Merlot.
So what about the 2021 Merlot from Riverview Estate Winery? The back label states it has been aged in a combination of French and American oak for two years. Deft use of oak seems to bless cooler climate Merlot whether from Ontario or New York.
Aroma: Blackberry, plum, cranberry, black cherry with some very minor chocolate notes. No fear on my part in proceeding further. It has some character on the nose.
Palate: Moderate tannins that come on slowly. Unfortunately most of the fruit on the nose has gone AWOL. Some acerbic cherry and blackberry trapped in peppery sourness. There is a hint of excellence but it is a hint and does not nimbly transcend into reality.
Personality: Was it Marlon Brando in “The Waterfront” that said “I coulda been a contender!” I suppose that’s me.
Food Match: To borrow an LCBO euphemism this is a “Friday night wine”.
Cellarbility: Nada.
Price: $20.15 CDN (Ontario).
RKS 2024 Wine Rating: 84/100.
(Riverview Estate Winery 2021 Merlot, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Riverview Cellars Estate Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 750 mL, 12%).
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