Pinot Noir is often referred to as the heartbreak grape due to its thin-skinned delicate nature. In my opinion Baco Noir is also a heartbreak grape perhaps not in the field but in converting its juice into a good wine. In Ontario I am mostly disappointed with Baco Noir that tricks the nose into thinking it is a special wine but it dies on the palate. While in Niagara recently I reluctantly picked up a Riverview Estates Winery Marechal Foch/Baco Noir because I am a fan of the former rather than the latter. It was a winner.
In this case stumbling into Cox Creek Cellars in the hinterland of Guelph, Ontario I decided to be adventurous and try their non-vintage Red Cuvée which is a blend of Baco Noir and Cabernet Franc the percentage of each grape in the blend not revealed on the label nor on their website.
Aroma: The Baco Noir is dominant with resulting “grapey” aroma. Blackberry, black cherry, dates and a smidge of chocolate. The Cabernet Franc keeps the Baco Noir in check and adds some discipline to the wine.
Palate: An enormity of smoothness with soft tannins. The acidity is just right. But is it just a bit too smooth without a bite or defined structure? Lots of blackberry and black cherry yet tinged with a bit of austerity which gives the wine credibility.
Personality: I am a juicy and approachable wine perhaps lacking complexity. But again I am approachable and many will like me and enjoy me and isn’t that what counts?
Food Match: Pork tenderloin medallions in a blackberry jam Red Cuvée reduction sauce. And this will shine with a roast turkey with cranberry sauce on the side.
Cellarbility: Drink by mid 2025.
Price: $16.95 CDN.
RKS 2024 Wine Rating: 84/100.
(Cox Creek Cellars NV Red Cuvée, Cox Creek Cellars, 7687 Wellington 22, Guelph, Ontario, 750 mL, 13%).
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