Shame on you who decry the monopolistic Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO)! The “Control” in the corporate name shouts out a paternalistic and profitable heart. The LCBO wants to control what you drink reducing its administrative and business costs as much as possible to maximize profits. No expensive forays into new wine markets only “new” as they have been ignored. Higher LCBO profits mean increasing sums will gush into our efficient medical system to the extent that money will be spent on groundbreaking and next century medical technologies like the relaxing effect Bailey’s Scottish Cream dispensers will have on overly “popular” emergency care waiting rooms. Brilliant strategies for better health.
Imagine my shock seeing a bottle of wine from Armenia tucked amongst the “Holiday” Vintages Catalogue of 14December2024. The LCBO is rightfully championing a newcomer to its shelves in its “inclusive to some exclusionary to many” wine buying programme. Thank goodness for this international forward-looking outlook as why start bringing in wines from over 100 Quebec wineries when Eastern Township wineries are a mere 7 hours drive from Toronto!
A blend of Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Predominately volcanic soils. Winemaker is Gabriel Rogel from Argentina and consulting “blender” Michel Rolland.
In a salute to the bravery of the LCBO we try a Karas 2022 Red Blend from the Ararat Valley.
Aroma: Dense black fruit. Blackberry, black cherry, cassis. Soft, smooth and some creamy lushness and density one might find in a Mendoza Malbec. A bit of dark chocolate and chili oil. I am picking up a hybrid of sorts almost Foch or Baco Noir but according to their website and label no such mention of hybrids. Hmmmmm? Some funk too reminiscent of many South African wines some 25 years ago.
Palate: Dry. Moderately tannic. The fruit tucked into the inner recesses of the wine but there is sufficient black fruit lurking that make this an interesting wine teasing you with much more to offer if you scrunch up the eyes and concentrate when tasting it. The Malbec is noticeable on the nose but more so the Syrah on the palate. Creamy blackberry with dark chocolate.
Personality: Dusky, dark and mysterious not capable of any convenient categorization.
Food Match: Not having visited Armenia a more domestic food suggestion would be roast lamb with lots of garlic with roast potatoes and a heaping pile of rapini sauteed with garlic, olive oil and red pepper flakes.
Cellarbility: Perhaps it will take until the end of 2025 for more fruit to emerge but consume by 2027-year end. This wine is uncertain in what direction it is heading and its key to brilliance is maintaining its stern structure “while letting its fruit out” in a measured fashion. Take a bit of risk and hope some age will draw more fruit out.
Price: $20 CDN and as low as $8.95 in the United States.
RKS 2025 Wine Rating: 91/100. Wine Align 90.
(Karas 2022 Red Blend, Ararat Valley, Tierras de Armenia, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 750 mL, 13.5%)
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