As for Greek red wines there is no star performer of world renown at least yet! Argentina has Malbec. Chile has Bonarda. United States Cabernet Sauvignon. Canada Cabernet Franc. Greece? Xinomavro or Agiorgitiko? I don’t think so perhaps because of limited distribution in North America.
Lemniona is the rising star of the Greek red varieties and will be a driving force for the development of numerous top wines around Greece in the years to come. The quality potential of this red variety, used to make dry red wines, was identified when only few vines were left. Several years of research and microvinifications, bringing together numerous scientists, growers and producers, started yielding some impressive results.
Lemniona wine has an extremely deep and vivid purple red colour. On the nose it is rich, very expressive, with red fruit, herbs, minerality and cooking spices. The palate has a great line, with a firm, textured but never aggressive tannin frame. Alcohol can be relatively high, although rarely above 13.5%, but it is always very balanced by the bright acidity. Today, because of its high profile, it is cultivated in a number of areas almost all around Greece. Nevertheless, in many of these it has a rather experimental status rather than used to make commercially available wines.
Lemniona is one of these rare red varieties that manage to pack extract, concentration, acidity and flavour, without leaning towards fatness and volume. It is for people looking for the next generation of ambitious, yet graceful reds. Lemniona, especially when young, is excellent with beef and other rich red meats. Most commercially available examples are ready to drink but will benefit for at least a few years of bottle age, while they will reach their peak in a decade or even more.
We try a Limniona from Domaine Sabanis.
Aroma: Black cherry, pomegranate, fig, hazelnut but the cherry predominates sometimes bright red cherry then suddenly black cherry in a dual personality.
Palate: Tannic but far less than one would expect from and Xinomavro of the same vintage. Loads of cherry for sure but fresh fig too. Moderate finish.
Personality: Although I carry a big stick, I am no Barolo or Xinomavro. A wine fitting for Zorba or Melina Mercouri but never on a Sunday!
Food Match: Kleftiko (Lamb in parchment paper).
Cellarbility: Will soften over the next 4 years. Consume by 2029-year end. I might go out on a limb as I am not familiar with the grape but it just might reach its peak in 2030. No harm in trying with a couple of bottles.
Price: $22 CDN.
RKS 2025 Wine Rating; 91/100.
(Domaine Sabanis 2021 Limniona, E. Sabani S.A., Evoia, Greece, 750 mL, 12.5%).
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