13October2025: Boarding the Eastern & Oriental Express: Where Veuve Clicquot Flows Like Water but the Big and Tall May Face a Tight Squeeze
Goodbye to the Shangri-La Singapore. No complaints whatsoever about that hotel. On the bus to the Woodlands Train Station bordering Malaysia to board the Eastern and Oriental Express (E&OE). I have preconceived notions of luxury and murder as after all there was that film “Murder on the Orient Express”.
All customs and immigration procedures for both Singapore departures and Malaysia arrivals are completed at the Woodlands Train Station. Never ending passport scans and the like leaving Singapore and then fingerprinting, eye scan and electronic reading of passport entering Malaysia. Greeted onboard the train by Keith our steward or butler as some refer to him as. Every E&OE passenger has a steward. “Ring the bell” and he/she is at your service.
My goodness how small our Pullman Cabin is! We wanted to upgrade to a larger and more humane State Cabin but none were available. A tall man trapped like a bug in a rug but the trick is to spend as little time as possible in the cabin. There was adequate disclosure as to the tightness of accommodations but was not heeded.
Afternoon tea served at 4-5 in our cabin and Veuve Clicquot flows freely if you so wish. So cramped though in this Pullman Cabin one wrong move and food goes flying.
Appetizers, cocktails and more Veuve available at the bar and open-air observation car at the rear of the train. Sipping Veuve watching the Malaysian jungle roll by. Armed security guard sits unobtrusively in the corner. The jungle, villages and towns greet the eyes and one senses rural poverty. Yet at certain locales apartment buildings and well-maintained small homes suggestive of the presence of a middle class. In every town I manage to see a Kentucky Fried Chicken sign. The Colonel is doing exceptionally well in Malaysia!
Two dining cars luxuriously appointed serving five-star cuisine. Spot on wine service with a choice of quality red or white or both depending on the four courses served plus dessert. Dress code is business casual for dinner somewhat difficult in packing an extra outfit with almost no storage space. You really do require a small carry-on bag for your cabin. Your larger luggage is loaded onto the baggage car to be delivered to you upon completion of your voyage.
Bathroom tiny and what will a shower be like with all the jostling. When walking the corridor one literally softly bounces off the walls.
The sofa in the Pullman Cabin converts to two bunk beds and is prepared by the steward while one is enjoying dinner. Once the bunk beds are pulled down my goodness only one person can prepare for beddy bye at a time! Agility and neatness are essential in the Pullman Cabin. And since I lost the toss I am in the upper bunk and just try climbing down the ladder to visit the WC at 3 a.m.! The train is on narrow British gauge, so one feels the motion which on this night was somewhat gentle beneficial to a good sleep. This is no high-speed smooth train ride!
Initial impression is sensory and culinary overload and no onboard murder quite yet although I did stop by for a glass of Veuve in the bar car after dinner and the karaoke blaring accompanied by off key voices was murderous on the ears.
Couple travellers should avoid the Pullman Cabin as the particularly tall or portly will suffer.
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