RKS Wine: Enough of those Wimpy Rosés

I try not to impose too many of my dislikes upon your taste buds as if you like a certain style of wine good for you and enjoy it as long as it is well made and without flaws. I suppose what I am saying honour your preferences and don’t let a wine writer bully you into drinking what that wine writer likes! You are your own best critic.

You know I have a beef against most Niagara Riesling as being over acidic and tart but best not let me get started on that. I am also increasingly tired of Brut and Extra Brut sparklers. What about Sec or Demi-Sec? What on earth goes on in the heads of LCBO buyers.

For years I avoided most rosé wine as it seemed like a pink white wine if that makes sense. Then I had a dark rosé from Spain which I think was Vina Aljibes which was a robust pinkie full of red fruit and power. Then another dark rose Rebecca’s Rosé from Kacaba in Niagara was fantastic. So I have gone to the dark side of pink or at least a pink with personality and power. Sounds like a Pink Floyd album!

I selected a Mas des Bressades from Costières de Nîmes for Mas Bressades rarely makes a delicate wine. It looks darker in the bottle than in the glass. On the nose fairly forceful notes of raspberry, cherry and watermelon. On the palate there is some good traction to this copper-colored wine. I would venture to say the grapes must be in pebbly soil as there is some raspy minerality to it. You might say this is an unremarkable wine because nothing grabs your tastebuds initially but in the finish a mini explosion of all manner of red fruits. And the acidity is very muted making it a great sipping wine. I can think it would suit grilled octopus very well or a salad with local tomatoes and if I knew the local cheeses it strikes me a good match for semi-soft goat cheeses. As for meat and poultry you’d have to fly me to Southern France so I could sit in a local restaurant near the winery to give you a food pairing. Although I do not think it would be a match for beef or lamb it might quench the fire of some spicey meat like sausages. So locally here in Canada I’d go with hot Italian sausage or most Indian food..

Although I’d prefer a darker rosé this one does have personality and power.

A perfectly crafted wine.

(Mas Des Bressades 2020 Cuvée Tradition, Costières de Nîmes AOP, Cyril Marès, Manduel, France, $ 17.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 950576 ,750 mL, 13.5%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 89/100).

Published by Robert K Stephen (CSW)

Robert K Stephen writes about food and drink, travel, and lifestyle issues. He is one of the few non-national writers to be certified as a wine specialist by the Society of Wine Educators, in Washington, DC. Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden and the University of Toronto. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he has established this publication. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write."

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