“Travels to a Different Time” : July 12, 1971: Hvar, Vira, Split and Murter in Yugoslavia: Off to the Island of the Deaf, Near Puke Near the Sewage Line, So Much for Honest Communists and Itinerary Flexibility

Up at the crack of dawn to catch a 7:20 boat to Split. We went to the tourist office to pay the bill but no one was there and we missed the boat and 10 minutes after that someone opened the tourist office. We had two alternatives one of which was wait until the next boat at 4 or take the bus to Vira and take a connecting ferry to Split. We took the bus to Vira which was a 20-minute ride in a little Mercedes passenger van which was as hot as an oven. We got there just in time as the boat was just arriving. After getting ready to board Mom realized her CP Air bag was on the bus. I whipped like crazy to the bus but the bag was not there. So much for the honest Communist. Meanwhile a sailor was frantically waving to me to get on the boat. My time for a tantrum. When we arrived at Split we had a bit of time to kill for our boat trip to the island of Murter. But we decided it would be quicker to take the bus there. On the way to the bus poor Mom almost puked as there was some work being done on the sewer line and the smell was ripe times two! The bus ride was stinking hot and we arrived in a sweat. We dragged our sweaty bodies to the tourist office and lucked out with a beautiful room in a pension. Why are so many people communicating in sign language here? As far as I can figure out there seems to be a very large camp for the deaf in Murter. Dinner for two $2.50.

Diary entry of Margaret Mary Stephen: We saw people eating small platters of fish. Anchovies I think. They were delicious but salty yet sweet. We ate the whole fish head and all. We then had stuffed green peppers and a glass for me of the excellent white wine. We had a great pastry after and my stomach is growing with such good pastries in Yugoslavia. There is a big deaf colony here so is that why it is called Murter?

Published by Robert K Stephen (CSW)

Robert K Stephen writes about food and drink, travel, and lifestyle issues. He is one of the few non-national writers to be certified as a wine specialist by the Society of Wine Educators, in Washington, DC. Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden and the University of Toronto. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he has established this publication. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write."

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