Some may run like lemmings for those wines scored in the mid to high 90’s especially if they are affordable. When I see a wine that is in this range I take up the challenge to see what the hype is about unless of course it is rated by Mr. Sky High Luca Maroni.
In this case the 97 has been awarded by Decanter World Wine Awards. The wine is a blend of 72% Cinsault, 18% País and 10% Carignan. Miguel Torres an extremely respectable vintner from Spain is the man behind the wine. I am a great fan of Cinsault when part of a blend or on its own if carefully tended. Cinsault and Pinot Noir were cloned in 1925 in South Africa to create the quirky Pinotage.
So this wine has to be knockout. Right?
I must admit I am a bit shell shocked by two rotten Pinot Noirs in succession that were so poor quality they must be returned. Ok I’ll spill the beans Eastdell 2017 Pinot Noir from Ontario and a 2019 Fabrègues Pinot Noir from France.
On the nose I immediately recover from shell shock and enjoy the black earth (a polite way of saying barnyard), artisanal organic cherry, beet juice, raspberry and milk chocolate. Classy. On the palate mild tannins. The first impression is that this is a dilute wine but give it a second or two and it shows a fine and high-toned cherry influence. However as hard as I strain my will and tastebuds the wine simply can’t deliver at a high calibre on the palate.
2022 has presented this writer with too many wine tasting crashes and who is rubbernecking at this “Riders in the Storm”? I am either growing super discriminating or crashing into the hellfire of wine infamy. Dare I criticize or fail to uphold a 97 pointer. Might as well exile me to North Africa to be rehabilitated in Cinsault vineyards.
(La Causa Cinsault/País/Carignan 2019, Valle del Itata, Chile, Miguel Torres, Curicó, Chile, $22.95, 750 mL, 13.5%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 89/100).
P.S. All that glitters is not gold.