I wouldn’t go so far as to say there isn’t a Malbec that disappoints but from Mendoza they rarely disappoint. There may be a looming problem that Argentinian Malbecs are perceived as Argentina’s signature wine to the detriment of other Argentinian wines. Perhaps the identical problem facing New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. Malbec producers enjoy the ride for as long as it lasts.
The Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2018 is a Malbec from Mendoza. With its near purple colour one receives an impression it will not surrender. On the nose you will be knocked about by a concentrated aroma of blackberry. There is also an underpinning of coal and layered above that is a mean rich streak of black cherry with a whiff of concrete. On the palate enough power to propel Elon Musk to the moon and back although some of us might be happier if he remained on the moon to develop an electric moonwalker.
But wait as the wine opens up the fruit disappears and the wine becomes overwhelmed by wet cement and cardboard. Houston, we have a problem. Abort the mission! Malbec disaster!
(Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2018, Mendoza, Argentina, Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza, Argentina, $16.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 178657, 750 mL, 14.7% RKS Wine Rating RETURN TO SENDER)