On the surface in the heavily trafficked areas of Thessaloniki one may be left with the impression the younger set survives on coffee and as the sun sets move on to cocktails. As in Toronto so it goes in Thessaloniki where wine and beer is dying and the mighty cocktail lifts its costly head. There is a multitude of food and delicious accompanying smells but when and where do these young bucks have time to eat?
The poor buggers may be slipping into anorexia but I have found a wonderful restaurant, very traditional full of over 50-year old’s without a cocktail in sight! A multitude of tables outdoors on a balmy mid-September night with seafood being the name of the game here. While many Greeks enjoy an ouzo with a traditional seafood dinner there are certain rebels about that are drinking wine here at Kafeneio Pyrgos!
The view is of the Pirgos (White Tower). The sea smelts (Gavros) smell of the ocean as if they were caught in the morning. Heaping plates of cuttlefish, octopus, mussels, eggplant dip, Greek Salad, delectable fries and fresh Greek bread. The Thessalonians are big eaters but very measured. 4 hours later when the appetite is beginning to resurge there are pickings left with wine. None of this 90 minute per sitting self important restaurant hegemony you might encounter in New York or Toronto. Stay as long as you want and take your time. As the restaurant has been open since 1924 why hurry?
Kafeneio Pyrgos 3 Tsirogianni Street (opposite the Pyrgos)
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