In the past week alone I have heard two friends say they are sick and tired of Argentinian Malbec. Is this how the winemakers of Argentina are rewarded for a never-ending stream of excellent Malbec! Yes wine is a fickle business. The cure for Malbec fatigue is simply to drink it occasionally. These Malbec veterans serve as a canary in the coal mine. What canary will flutter in wine country next? New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? California Chardonnay? Italian Pinot Grigio?
Skirting any further debate on to an Alta-Yarí Reserva Malbec from the Uco Valley.
Aroma: Thank goodness after 10 minutes the funk has disappeared. Malbec can do no wrong. Lush and plush to describe Malbec? Are my descriptors becoming a bit redundant and God forbid tiresome? OK then plum, lavender, red currant and black cherry.
Palate: Smooth lush and plush etc. etc. etc. Quite a big dollop of blueberry with lesser notes of blackberry. I sense raging acidity but thank goodness it is in check but its presence is worrying. Is it volatile and ready to bust out of its polite structural prison? Short finish.
Personality: Those nice humans who grew me did so at over 1,300 metres so I am quite tight but I am still a bit young and wrapped up in a tight structure.
Cellarbility: If the acidity remains in check and that is difficult to predict the wine will open up by 2025 and coast into 2028.The acidity makes me nervous as it could easily ruin the wine. Caveat Emptor!
Food pairing: Argentinian asado. I do need to visit Argentina to widen my gastronomical experience. There must be more than meat and chimichurri!
Price: $21 (Ontario).
RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 90/100. Patricio Tapia 94.
(Alta-Yarí Reserva 2020 Malbec, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Bodegas Fabre, Mendoza, Argentina, 750 mL, 14.5%, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 28086).
P.S. All Malbec and no play makes Malbec a dull boy! Don’t cry for me Argentinian Malbec!
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