In this Canadian documentary we follow the life of Vancouver chef Hidekazu Tojo from his humble and poor beginning in Kagoshima, Japan to his rise to prominence as owner chef of one of Vancouver’s premier Japanese restaurants TOJO’s frequented by the monied classes of the world. A celebrity chef followed like a rock star by celebrities and the wealthy.
Seeking to escape the stifling bureaucracy and rigid traditionalism of restaurants in Japan after his apprenticeship in Osaka in 1971 he emigrated to Canada first working at Maneki one of four established Japanese restaurants in Vancouver preparing traditional Japanese food for predominately Japanese Canadians.
Canada represented a culture shock for Tojo particularly the English language which he has yet to master. But what he has mastered is adapting to Canadian ingredients utilizing trusted fisherman and farmers with sourcing the highest quality fish and produce.
His personal pinnacle of success is understandably pleased diners which is a constant theme encountered with the chefs in Vancouver and Japan we meet in the documentary which shifts seamlessly from Vancouver to Japan.
Somewhat distracting but nonetheless interesting for some is a sideway discussion on the internment of Japanese Canadians during the Second World War for which the Canadian government apologized and offered restitution to living survivors of the internment.
The Daruma doll featured throughout is a round and hollow Japanese doll seen as a talisman of good luck and fortune for many Japanese. Set your goals and colour in one eye and work towards reaching that goal at which point you fill in the other eye. The process is repeated each year as at the end of the year the doll is burnt and with it the gratitude you have imbued it with goes to heaven. A new Daruma then repeats the cycle.
No doubt an interesting documentary focusing on the creative force behind feeding the gullets of the elite quite similar to the documentary “Jiro Loves Sushi”. I prefer the more accessible ramen heaven of Tokyo’s Bizenti with chef Masamato Uedo in the documentary “Come Back Anytime” where the clientele eat superbly simple cuisine at affordable prices.
Directed by Mads Baekewold and screening 16February2025 at the Victoria (British Columbia) Film Festival.
RKS Documentary Film Rating 86/100.
A Bird's Eye View of Fashion, Food, Travel, Culture, Beverage and Curiosity 