Xinomavro, a Greek red grape, is problematic. It can be highly tannic and grape quality aside, if not sufficiently aged, your mouth is in for a battle. For this reason, I largely avoid Xinomavro.
Yet I have had the pleasure of Xinomavro aged some twenty years and it was remarkable.
I was at the Toronto Wines of Greece Trade and Consumer Tasting on 21April2026 and reluctantly tried several Xinomavros. The older the wine (within a five-year range) the better it was and even better when sustainable and biodynamic.
Let’s try a 2023 Young Wines Xinomavro biodynamic and sustainably produced from Thymiopoulos Vineyards.
Fermented and aged in concrete.
Aroma: Loads of cherry. Secondary notes of raspberry. Tertiary notes of blueberry. Clean and untainted.
Palate: Clean and pure. Moderate tannins with perfectly controlled acidity. Beautiful layered red fruit. I never imagined a 2023 Xinomavro could be described as elegant, but I am saying it here. Moderately long finish with a hint of spice.
Personality: You can scarcely believe I am so light on my feet! I think I am reminiscent of a Niagara Gamay Noir!
Food Match: Stuffed zucchini flowers.
Cellarbility: Consume by 2027-year end.
Price: $20CDN.
RKS Wines of Greece Rating: 90/100. Natalie MacLean 91.
(Thymiopoulos 2023 Young Vines Xinomavro, PGI Macedonia, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, Imathia, Greece, 750 mL, 13%).
