Good-bye to Athens as T picked up the rental Land Rover and we assembled in the lobby after breakfast at 09:30 and off to Delphi. Most of the journey was on toll roads. Beautifully maintained and constructed. Once clear out of Athens the traffic is minimal and at points nonexistent. Two and a half hours later with a pit stop in the mountains we climb up and up to Delphi passing Arahova with its ski shops. Yes there is skiing in Greece.
Most of my time in Greece has been spent on the islands or proximate the ocean. Consequently, travelling in this mountainous region is quite an eye opener. A part of Greece I have never experienced before. We may be at 1500 meters, but it is high enough to pop the ears.
Loads of tourist buses line the road around the archeological site as we head to the town of Delphi. Cruise shippers, day trippers and overnighters like us.
We locate our hotel on the main street, Kastalia Boutique Hotel. Clean, comfortable and with decent space and a partial sea view. Way down below there is the ocean and so many groves of olive trees lending to a spectacular view.
Parking is near impossible on the main street of Delphi until in front of the hotel we spot a bike hogging a huge spot with orange pylons protecting and fencing off its turf it but with the blessing of the hotel’s desk clerk we move the bike across the street and park our Land Rover. It was a dilapidated bicycle and who parked it there who knows although the next morning it was exactly where we left it the day prior. A selfish bicycle perhaps but more likely some car hating prankster!
We walked 15 minutes or to the archeological site and despite the number of tourist buses no line up to purchase a 20 Euro ticket and enter. The goal is to just keep climbing upward on steps or a dirt path to the last and most impressive structure being the Stadium. It is a vigorous but not a daunting climb if you are half good condition. The views down below to the sea and the mountains are exceptional.
I repeat it is never the ruins that excite and intrigue. It’s your imagination of what they were in their prime and in use by the ancients. Your mind will be busy imaging and imagining to its delight as you huff and puff your way up to the Stadium then back down with your legs a bit wobbly by the time you are back at the entrance.
The Sanctuary and oracle began in the 8th century BC and its influence over Greece in its entirety increased in the 6th century BC. It was the centre of the world in the eyes of the ancient Greeks. According to myth it was the meeting point of two eagles released by Zeus, one to the East and one in the West.
As I am recovering from the hot climb and descent with lots of liquid at the café outside the admission gates a small group of Brits and their tour guide arrive, Cruiseshippers as I hear them talking about their luvely dinner onboard last night. Half of this crowd have mobility devices so they aren’t trekking up any mountain! Not even sure why they signed up for the Delphi excursion and good for them if they manage to make it back to the tourist bus then to their ship for the midnight chocolate buffet! Perhaps they have enough stamina to visit the museum!
I finished our Delphi trek quicker than my travelling companions so I advised I would be off to pick a restaurant in town. Near the hotel was Epicurion Restaurant with some tables having a spectacular view of the mountains and sea below. No reservations accepted but waitress said be here between 18:00-18:30 and you will have the primo tables. Excellent tzatziki and Mount Parnassus Feta. I had a delicious Goat Kleftiki. We showed up at 18:30 and were amply rewarded with the best table in the house.
As we were finishing up a tour group arrived for their “traditional Greek mountainside dinner”. The poor waitress and one other fellow were running ragged attempting to serve this large group. Participate in these tours and your meals are preordered, so all this group ate the same dishes.
I recounted a story to my dining companions about my witnessing a near brawl while scouting out this restaurant. A tourist bus hit a car and a violent shouting match between the car driver and the bus driver and a few other people thrown in for good measure. I can imagine the locals are none to pleased with endless streams of tourist buses crowding the roads and spewing diesel fumes throughout with these Daytripper’s being inconsequential revenue producers.
Photos: R. Kennedy Stephen
