RKS Wines: Bonarda, Should Malbec Be Worried?

Years ago the Argentinians launched International Malbec Day. I suppose then we won’t be seeing Bonarda Day? There is a certain mass appeal to the plush and lush Malbec. Perhaps that is why you see so much more Argentinian Malbec than Bonarda in Canada.

How about the Lamadrid Bonarda which was ranked #37 in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys of 2020 earning a score of 91. Like the best Argentinian Malbecs it is also from Mendoza. On the nose one gets the sense of a sharper and more peppy wine than a Malbec. Malbec reminds of a stout and sleepy goutish character. Loads of freshly picked red fruit with a tad of coal reminiscent of grapes grown in volcanic soil. On the palate the tannins are on the light side. The wine has a perky and fresh taste. Very well integrated acidity with a slightly peppery finish. Some coal, cactus pear, cola and black cherry in a tight anxiety ridden finish. I sense the fruit might make a “Great Escape” in a couple of years. For food I think a Bachalau might suit this or a shrimp and feta tart.

Malbec and Bonarda appear to be diametrically opposed.

(Lamadrid Single Vineyard Bonarda 2019, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, Bodega    Lamadrid, Mendoza Argentina, $16.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 232652, 750 mL, 14%, RKS Wine Rating 89/100).

RKS Film: “Images of a Nordic Drama”: Battle Royale in the Art World (Toronto Hot Docs Festival)

Norwegian art collector Haakon Mehren is reluctantly led to a barn in 1990 by his friend who has unearthed a huge cache of paintings by unknown Norwegian artist Aksel Waldemar Johannessen (1880-1922). Another collection of his paintings is held by his surviving daughter. Mehren thinking that “treasures in a barn” is a fairy tale is blown away by the depth and power of the paintings.

Haakon Mehran

Johannessen painted lumpenproletarian subjects very unfashionable and vulgar to many and rubbish to most directors of the Norwegian National Museum. One director Knut Berg had a hatred of Johannessen to the extent that he threatened a cultural director in Germany that should he exhibit him there would be no loans of any Norwegian art to German museums the cultural director was responsible for something the Germans took as a threat.

Johannessen was an artist who painted for himself and never entered the commercial market for art. He was poor and when his wife was diagnosed with cancer his drinking increased and he was eventually found in the gutter, transported to hospital where he died. His terminally ill wife mounted an exhibit of his art which was met with critical acclaim and Edvard Munch praised him. The public guardian took control of his art until his two daughters reached the age of majority. Johannessen fell off the radar screen until Mehren encounters his paintings in 1990 and from then on ceaselessly champions him battling against Berg of the National Museum and his allies. Being spurned by the National Museum and much of the Norwegian art establishment Mehren takes the paintings for exhibits in Italy and Vienna to huge acclaim. Berg battles against Mehren despite the public appreciation of a Norwegian treasure.

Allis Helleland is appointed as a new director of the National Museum and Mehren appears to finally have an ally at the National Museum but she leaves after infighting in some part due to her appreciation of Johannessen. The next director of the National Museum has no appreciation of Johannessen as he appears to be cozying up to a billionaire art collector and building “corporate partnerships” that shy away from anything different from bread and butter and since they start controlling purse strings of museums they get what they want. Been to the opera, ballet or public art gallery lately? These money sucking machines are kept afloat by corporate interests so what independence do they have? That’s a story for another day.

Mehren offers 30 paintings to the municipality of Oslo along with a large grant but they refuse it. The legacy of Berg remains strong Edvard Munch obsessed that they are. And in effect using Munch as a weapon against Mehren.

The exhibit of Johannessen in Italy was referred to the Italian press as a “Nordic Drama”.

The documentary concludes with a Johannessen hanging in the Met in New York.

You’ll be treated to many of his artworks in the documentary and I say it is tragic Johannessen never lived to see the admiration many have for his work and the fact Mehren has not managed to install Johannessen in the National Museum. The acidic politics of the Norwegian art world. You can see in theatre at Hot Docs on April 30 and May 5 and virtually for 5 days (geoblocked to Canada) as of May 1.

Directed by Nils Gaup.

RKS Film Rating 92/100.

“Travels to a Different Time” : 1July1975: Stockholm, Sweden: No Midnight Shift for Me at the Laundromat

After breakfast a chat with a Brazilian guy who had found a job at a laundromat. He had the address of another laundromat that might have a job so I went to it and waited 10 minutes in the office to speak to the manager who had a job at the night shift. That would screw up a normal life so I declined. I returned home in the Metro and bought some beans, milk and tangerines for lunch. I found a “Time” and read half of it and went into town to people watch on the steps opposite the marketplace. Then off to the other hangout Kulterhuset where you can read and listen to music on earphones. I reserved a 7 p.m. spot. I returned home for a repulsive supper and then headed back to Kulterhuset picking two albums one being “Hot Rats” by Frank Zappa. Came home at 21:00 and in bed half an hour later.

RKS Wine: A Douro Delight? Prova Cega Sparks Demonstrations Against Canadian Wine Writer in Portugal!

Spoilt brats like me get so accustomed to consistent excellence of Douro reds from Portugal they often fail to become excited by them and instead nonchalantly assume excellence. Poor spoilt brat! What pressure on Douro winemakers to be held in such high esteem! I have had some knockouts at under $15 so money doesn’t necessarily determine Douro excellence.

Now that I have opened my big mouth what about a 2019 Provo Cega from the Douro. A blend of the “usual suspects” of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Sousão.

Dark purple in colour. For aromatics black cherry, blueberry, floral notes, spice, root beer and lavender. On the palate moderate to heavy tannins with black cherry and assorted black fruits including blackberry. Medium finish. Would suit grilled Ox or pork and clams Portuguese style. Also would suit medium rare grilled beef or a Douro Duck and Rice Casserole. Eggplant Parmesan would like to be a friend of this wine or some Greek Pastitsio.

This will calm down a bit in the next two years if you like a less robust wine.

This spoilt brat rolls his eyes and says not another excellent Douro red! A real spoilt spoilt brat. If I keep this up next time I land in Porto the anti-Robert demonstrations will be larger than the last time!

(Prova Cega 2019, DOC Douro, Quinta de Curvos, Braga, Portugal, $14.95, 750 mL, 14%, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 446054 RKS Wine Rating 92/100)

RKS Wine:  Mendoza Malbecs Power on But Not Always! Malbec Disaster!

I wouldn’t go so far as to say there isn’t a Malbec that disappoints but from Mendoza they rarely disappoint. There may be a looming problem that Argentinian Malbecs are perceived as Argentina’s signature wine to the detriment of other Argentinian wines. Perhaps the identical problem facing New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. Malbec producers enjoy the ride for as long as it lasts.

The Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2018 is a Malbec from Mendoza. With its near purple colour one receives an impression it will not surrender. On the nose you will be knocked about by a concentrated aroma of blackberry. There is also an underpinning of coal and layered above that is a mean rich streak of black cherry with a whiff of concrete. On the palate enough power to propel Elon Musk to the moon and back although some of us might be happier if he remained on the moon to develop an electric moonwalker.

But wait as the wine opens up the fruit disappears and the wine becomes overwhelmed by wet cement and cardboard. Houston, we have a problem. Abort the mission! Malbec disaster!

(Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2018, Mendoza, Argentina, Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza, Argentina, $16.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 178657, 750 mL, 14.7% RKS Wine Rating RETURN TO SENDER)

“Travels to a Different Time” : 30June1975: American Graffiti Lives on in Stockholm! Scary Jesus Person in the Graveyard

I had the idea of finding some work to bolster my cash as at $12 a day Sweden is burning the cash. The first stop was the tourist office who gave me the address of the employment office who then sent me to Immigration who then sent me to the employment office for students. Yes they had jobs but what a hassle. They give you a book with jobs and a translation book. I gave up with the bureaucracy after an hour and went to the hangout square where there is a library you can listen to music at with earphones and read newspapers and magazines some of which are in English. I met a guy from Winnipeg and another from Montreal. They were good Frisbee players. Finally someone with my skills. We played in an old graveyard by the hostel. I put one on poor Hans’s grave marker (RIP 1907). We were taking a rest and some eerie looking Jesus person approached us looking as if he just emerged from a grave. I went with the Canadians to McDonalds for cheap food for the impoverished masses. After on a main street an incredible sight with old American cars roaring up and down the street. A greasy crowd. A cross between “American Graffiti” and “Rebel Without a Cause”. Sweden loves American culture.

“Travels to a Different Time” : 29June1975: Stockholm, Sweden: Salvation Army All Over the Place!

I must admit civilized and advanced Sweden may offer the best milk I have ever had and guaranteed hot showers but everything feels sterile and lifeless after Greece and Yugoslavia where people may be poor but many are so lively. And anything you want you can buy which is a bit of a shock from the shortages of everything in Eastern Europe. There is simply not too much to get frustrated with. It is so much like home even much of the topography. Is it boring?

Up at 10:00 and off to the store for breakfast and while I ate I talked with a Pakistani guy and with some Canadians that had just arrived from Oslo. They had a shower and we headed out to a cheap place to eat called the Cooking School but could not find it. We ended up at a place the Pakistani guy knew which was a buffet and we all stuffed ourselves. We headed to a square where the young folks congregate. There were huge crowds of Japanese young folk. We just watched the people drift by on a warm spring day. The Germans and I headed off to Carrols for a milkshake. Stockholm is Americanized. Lots of processed plastic food and chain restaurants. After this off to the PUB department store steps to people watch. The Salvation Army was performing nearby. What is it with the Salvation Army here. They are everywhere. Do people in Sweden need salvation? They had their first Swedish meeting in 1878.

RKS Film: “The Smell of Money”: A Big Battle Against Big Pork Megacorp!

Elsie Herring was a resident of Eastern North Carolina in the United States that fought tooth and nail against the big pork processors in Duplin County. Her grandfather as a former slave purchased tracts of land in the county for farming purposes. The Big Pork Megacorps mushroomed in Eastern North Carolina in the 1980’s and pig wastewater spraying began just across from her property or rather on her property which through deed manipulation Big Pork claimed as its own. Pigs generate many feces and much urine and generate a lot of flatulence. The feces and urine are channelled into lagoons. Much of it is sprayed onto fields creating a dangerous toxic spray. Some of it “leaks” out so Big Pork says. It is a cheap way for disposing of pig waste for Big Pork but it is a huge nuisance making life unpleasant for residents. It poisons residents, groundwater and waterways.

As Peter Finch yells in the movie “Network” and has citizens yell, “I’m mad as hell and I’m not going to take it anymore.” Well the 1990’s saw residents in Big Pork contaminated areas fight back and eventually win massive multi billion dollar settlements against Big Pork. This documentary is a story of their fight.

One Smithfield Big Pork plant processes over 10,000 hogs a day. Truckloads of pigs pour into Eastern North Carolina leaving a trail of pig fumes. Not only that chicken farms compound the problem. Why is it that fisherman in lands adjacent to Big Pork start passing out? Why are so many residents becoming ill incurring massive legal bills?

North Carolina politicians on the whole favoured Big Pork as the biggest industry in North Carolina. Their unwavering support and callous disregard for Big Pork opponents is disgraceful. Big Pork’s opposition and harassment of opponents has labeled them the affectionate term “Pork Mafia”. Why is it the film crew in Big Pork territory was shadowed by no less than 5 police cars?

It was community activists that launched numerous class action lawsuits that wounded Big Pork. Perhaps the call to action intensified with Hurricane Florence in 2018 that killed millions of animals, flooded hog processing plants and caused 50 pig waste ponds to overflow with disastrous results.

Elsie died but the activism continues and Big Pork continues its way. As one Big Pork executive said the smell of pig shit is the smell of money.

One activist admonishes the American public for eating meat 24/7. Big Pork is fuelled by consumer demand.

I would be interested in a sequel dealing what if anything has changed after Big Pork lost so many class action lawsuits.

The documentary is part of Toronto Hots Docs Festival and can be seen at Hot Docs theatres on April 30 and May 3. It will stream (geoblocked to Canada) for 5 days commencing May 1st.

Directed and written by Shawn Bannon.

RKS Film Rating 88/100.

RKS Wine: Does Lions’ Circle Shiraz Roar or Meow?

The Plantagenet Lion’s Circle 2018 from Western Australia might roar, meow or perhaps even purr. Western Australian wines can be lighter than a Barossa or McLaren Vale Shiraz. Let’s see!

As for aromatics there is an earthy characteristic that on a blind tasting I might mistake this for a South African Shiraz. Notes of black cherry and blackberry. On the palate just above the radar tannins. It is no weak kneed 99-pound weakling as it has palate presence but does it have character? The influence of blackberry, blueberry and black cherry is knobbly kneed. This Shiraz has run out of gas and fails to impress. I hear a meow! I am beginning to conclude that Australian wines are overpriced and better value is to be had with the wines of Portugal, Spain and Southern France and for Syrah in Canada I’d go with Stag’s Hollow in the Okanagan, British Columbia!

(Plantagenet Lions’ Circle Shiraz 2018, Great Southern, Western Australia, Plantagenet Wines, Barker, Western Australia. $18.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 15977, 14%, 750 mL, RKS Wine Rating 85/100).

“Travels to a Different Time” : 28June1975: Stockholm, Sweden: Seeing the King of Sweden and the Arguing Gay Boys

Up at 9:30 in my slum which at least has hot water in their showers. On my way to the supermarket to buy some breakfast supplies approached by yet another drunk of which there are many in Stockholm. I bought some bread, cheap meat and a litre of milk. The price was so outrageous I can’t write it down. I ate breakfast sitting on the edge of my bed and then walked into the city encountering a huge mob of people. I waited with the mob and then saw why so many people were there. I saw the King of Sweden. I split and walked around. Lots of small winding streets very narrow and full of expensive shops and restaurants. I checked a few restaurants to query if they had work but only one did and it was a waiter’s job and since I do not speak Swedish forget that! On the way back to my tenement I stopped for a lunch of a Big Mac, milkshake and fries for $3.50. How expensive! I could have the same in Montreal for $1.50. Back at three I washed some clothes and lamented the difficulty of living out of a knapsack. Next door are a couple of gay guys from United States asking each other the most stupid questions. A nasty blow out ensued. They left shortly afterwards. I left at 19:30 and bought some milk, bread and meat. Milk is the cheapest thing to drink at 35 cents a litre. I went to play harmonica along with a guy with a guitar from New Zealand. Off to bed at 21:30.