RKS Wine: A Couple of Borsao Wines from Campo de Borja

Robert Parker wrote in 2016, “My favourite value winery not only in Spain, but in the world, is Bodegas Borsao in the up-and-coming appellation of Campo de Borja.” Well that was 6 years ago and no doubt he has found a new favourite value winery since then. Such is the life of wine where nothing is static except perhaps for mass consumer taste that moves at a glacial pace?

In the last year two friends have remarked how they like a Grenache from Campo de Borja called “Tres Picos”. Grenache from Campo de Borja has a reputation of being on the feisty side. Karen MacNeil’s Wine Bible states that the Grenaches of Campo de Borja, “…are not delicate, restrained wines. Black, dense, chewy, and lip-smacking, they have irresistible, big thrusts of Kirsch-berry fruit, minerals and spice. “

The Tres Picos has aromas of black cherry, kirsch, blueberry and a hint of dark chocolate. Spicy and nippy tannins. The acidity and tannins seem to be fighting each other for dominance which makes me uneasy. In my opinion a top red wine should have a harmony of these two components. Lots of spice on the palate with strawberry on steroids.

This is not a sipping wine with its spicy and nippy character. Sausage comes to mind as well as grilled lamb as is a favourite in Ribera del Duero west of Campo de Borja. It would match a bruschetta made with fresh field tomatoes or a simple vegetarian pasta sauce once again made with fresh tomatoes. The acidity of the fresh tomatoes could be a good foil to the nippiness of the wine.

Quite frankly the Tres Picos does not impart Parker euphoria. I have never been a proponent of red wine with noticeable acidity. But pair with the right foods perhaps you won’t be as disappointed. I suppose this is what I get for noticing what Robert Parker says. No I am not being catty. MEOW!

(Tres Picos Garnacha 2019, DO Campo de Borja, Bodegas Borsao, Borja, Spain, $19.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 27348, 750 mL, 14.5%, RKS Wine Rating 88/100).

The white available at the LCBO is called Borsao Selección Blanco 2020 and it has a nose of apple, pear, citrus, pineapple and tangerine. On the palate this wine lacks much character. It is quaffable and would be one of those wines by the glass to sip in the evening in the main square of Bilbao on a hot summer evening as families have some wine and tapas with their children playing nearby. The label refers to the creaminess of the wine. Can’t see any of that here.

Suitable for simply prepared sole, flounder or turbot. Light meets light.

A blend of Chardonnay and Macebo.

(Borsao Selección Branco 2020 DO Campo de Borja, Bodegas Borsao, Borja, Spain, $13.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 25533, 750 mL, 13.5%, RKS Wine Rating 80/100).

Published by Robert K Stephen (CSW)

Robert K Stephen writes about food and drink, travel, and lifestyle issues. He is one of the few non-national writers to be certified as a wine specialist by the Society of Wine Educators, in Washington, DC. Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden and the University of Toronto. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he has established this publication. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write."

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