You may know Lisbon as a wonderful tourist destination although unfortunately of late it is overrun by tourists. It is also a Portuguese wine appellation. The Quinta do Espírito Santo label has that annoying characteristic of not describing the grapes used in the blend instead stating it is made from “very ripe grapes of typical Portuguese varieties”. The label also states the wine has been aged in oak but French, Hungarian or French? And how long has it been aged?
Aromatics: Black cherry, blackberry, blueberry and dark chocolate.
Palate: Moderate to heavy tannins. While there is blackberry galore and a tad of espresso the wine is a bit gruff. Poorly made or simply requiring a bit more ageing as many Lisbon reds require?
Personality: By today’s standards wasn’t Marlon Brando a puppy in the “Wild Ones” although at the time he was portraying a hoodlum. Is this wine gruff and tough but going to be a puppy in three years?
Cellarability: Taking a gamble I’d say give it two more years to start and reassess. I wouldn’t be surprised if it peaks in 2026.
Food match: Beef roti.
In a nutshell: A wine that takes no prisoners at least now.
RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 87/100.
(Quinta do Espírito Santo 2018, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Casa Santos Lima, $14.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 48015, 15%, 750 mL).
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