“Travels to a Different Time” : August 1970 More Skiros: No More Mackerel Sandwiches Please!

August 1, 1970: Up at 8 a.m. to take the bus to a new beach. On the way to the bus stop we bought some canned mackerel and sardines and bread. We were on the bus at 9 and at the beach at 10 and we had to walk through a forested area of pine trees. This forest contrasted with the barren nature of many Greek islands we have visited. When we arrived at the beach we had a late breakfast of sardine sandwiches but too many wasps spoiled our breakfast. At 2 it was so hot we took refuge in an abandoned schoolhouse with some Greek families looking for relief from the heat. We had mackerel sandwiches for lunch and at 3 the bus horn summoned us for our return trip. Upon returning to our grape arbour we sat on our cots and read and had a nap and at 7:45 we started our trip into town. We had goat stew and eggplants in tomato sauce. We played cards after dinner until 9 and headed back to bed.

August 3, 1970: Up at 7:30 today and I went to the bakery to buy some bread and yet more mackerel sandwiches. UGH! For breakfast!

August 5, 1970: It was our last day on Skiros and went to the beach for a morning swim. Before returning home we bought our lunch of cheese, mackerel (yet again), bread, pastries and the almighty tomato (UGH!). We packed up and paid the lurking Mrs. Piitsa $7 for our seven day stay and she mumbled something which did not sound like a thank you. We squeezed on the bus to Linaria pushed in by some energetic old ladies. We arrived on Skopelos on the ship Miaoulis at 6:15 p.m. and were taken ashore in a private launch for 15 cents a person.

RKS Wine: Go with The Bordeaux Flow?

Over the past few years in Ontario there has been a steady steam of low-cost Bordeaux wines appearing in the market. These bargain basement prices remind one of the cost of many wines from Chile, South Africa, Spain and Portugal. Bordeaux has a lot of “goodwill” attached to its name like “Champagne” does but we are too smart to be sucked in by the hype….right? Bordeaux should not lead to an assumption of quality. If you are buying the lower cost Bordeaux ($20 and under) you may wish to be vigilant as to the producers you are buying from.

With these foreboding words we try a Cru Bourgeois from Chateau La Pirouette which is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% of the quirky Petit Verdot.

On the nose a low-key nasal attack here with black cherry, blackberry with some lush dense Merlot waiting to burst out and take the lead but held back beautifully and harmoniously by Cabernet Sauvignon with just enough feisty Petit Verdot to tease you with the exotic. On the palate the tannins are bordering on moderate. Notes are understated and laid back with black cherry, high toned sweet cranberry concentrate with a bit of a creamy finish. A little more depth on the palate would make this an exceptional wine so we just must settle with a very good wine here.

While I do not think this will improve in the bottle I think it would happily endure until the end of 2023.

 Wine drinker profile: Would suit those who like a low key as opposed to an assertive pack a punch red wine. Not a wine that demands to be accompanied by a meal. The aroma of the wine would be a good example of the simplicity yet elegance of a good Bordeaux.

(Château La Pirouette Cru Bourgeois 2016 AC Médoc, Earl Roux, Jau-Dignmac-Loirac, France, $18.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 21087, 750 mL,13%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 91/100).

Our next Bordeaux is a 2018 Marquis de Bern rated by my most trustworthy critic Roger Voss of the Wine Enthusiast as a 91. It is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc.

On the nose it has somewhat a similar nose to the wine above. I would describe the aroma as a creamy and lush mix of blackberry, blueberry, cherry and blueberry tarts. On the palate noticeable tannins but not big bruiser ones. Why not call them firm! There are some blueberries, chocolate and pomegranate. A short but satisfying finish. I think there are enough tannins and promise in this wine so that it will mature nicely through to 2027. Good to sip on its own and it has enough confidence to compliment roast lamb or a prime rib. Being a big fan of my fried rice, I would salute vegetarians with a glass of this wine with mushroom fried rice and stir-fried broccoli in oyster sauce on the side.

(Marquis De Bern 2018 Bordeaux, AC Bordeaux, Marquis de Bern, Rions, France, $13.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 21091, 750 mL, 14%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 91/100).

“Travels to a Different Time” : July 29, 1970: Sleeping in a Grape Arbour on the Outskirts of Skiros: Watch For Scorpions! I Love Goat Stew!

We arrived at the tiny port town of Linaria in Skiros and no luck in finding rooms. Somehow we ended up on the outskirts of the equally tiny town of Skiros sleeping outside in cots in a grape arbour. I have been to camp in Vermont so this was going to be another adventure. As long as we don’t have scorpions biting us this should be OK. At least we are a few minutes away from a quiet beach. There are few tourists here. Now to get to the town of Skiros we have to walk five minutes to the beach. We then have to climb down a ladder then walk along the beach then up a ladder to walk up to the town. There is only one restaurant in town. We have a nice routine here. Up early, go the bakery in town, get some fruit and bread for breakfast. Then go to the beach for most of the day with an outdoor siesta then back to the beach. I have turned a golden brown by now. I love the ocean and I can even open my eyes underwater and they don’t sting. Then at 6 or so we head into town not forgetting our flashlight and head to the restaurant for mezze which in Greek means a snack. We usually have a couple of plates of cucumbers, tomato, octopus and feta cheese. Like a true Greek Mom has an ouzo or two and we watch the ocean below. The restaurant does not open until 8 p.m. and don’t even think of eating earlier than that! As we can’t read Greek we go into the kitchen and point to what we want to eat. The cooks smile and give us advice as to what they think we should be eating. I am having so much fun here and dinner every night here is so delicious. I feel so far away from home on some tiny island in the middle of an ocean and like I am in another world. How can I ever explain my adventures?

July 30, 1970: We froze under the grape arbour so we asked for some wool blankets for the upcoming nights. We went into town for some bread and canned mackerel. We also bought some soft drinks, beer and a watermelon and headed to the beach for mackerel sandwiches. Like in Crete the ocean was rough today and again I had to drag a panicked mom back to shore. Dinner tonight was goat stew for me and some salty fish for Mom.

“Travels to A Different Time” : July 1970 Squabbles in Iraklion, Crete and Robert to the Rescue

July 25, 1970: Up early at 7:30 today. Mom hand washed some of our clothes and we went down for breakfast at the pension we were saying at owned by Ismini Georgiadis. Bread and honey with scrambled eggs. Mom had a little squabble with Ismini over a cup of coffee. When we arrived at her pension she offered Mom a cup of coffee and now she was asking payment of 30 cents for it. I suppose Mom thought this was just another example of Greek hospitality we have become used to. Well Mom gave her a piece of her mind and paid up. Ismini came back and apologized and tried to return the money which Mom accepted. She then asked us to write a letter in English to a family in England. We don’t like Ismini very much. She charges $3.00 a night for breakfast and a room which is too much. After the letter was written we headed to the beach taking a bus there and again the little old ladies would bowl you over to get a seat. The beach we went to was a sandy beach Aminosos with huge waves good for body surfing. Suddenly when I was drying off in the sand I heard Mom shout for help. She disappeared under the waves and then surfaced. I grabbed her and hauled her in. She was coughing and gasping for breath and a small crowd gathered some offering help. She had some bad cramps and panicked. This made me think about our cottage in Vermont on Lake Champlain where Mom had a strict rule that there would be no swimming after a meal until you waited an hour. Something about blood flow being diverted to food digestion stopping blood flow to other parts of the body and causing cramps.

July 27, 1970: A Real Nasty Squabble!

Up at 8, breakfast and then off to the Iraklion Museum. What a bore and I yawned throughout it all. Well that caused Mom to have a tantrum and now she wants to return home to Montreal and she says she is sick and tired of me! I hope this will pass. Maybe it was the scare on the beach the other day? We went out for dinner and before we ordered she got up and stormed out. I followed her and ended up in a cafe where she went for a drink. When I walked up to the table she got up and stormed out. I followed her again and almost lost sight of her in a crowded marketplace but I spotted her at a restaurant. We had a silent meal and returned home where she said we should return to Montreal as I’d like it there. She sat on her bed tapping her foot on the floor. I have seen her take a few tantrums lately but this is a bad one. What a shame to ruin a vacation like this. No way I want to return to Montreal.

July 28, 1970: Goodbye Crete and Hopefully Better Temper Ahead!: We are leaving to go to the island Skiros today. Perhaps Mom’s temper will cool down? Cretans seem less friendly than the people we encountered on the other Greek islands. We settled our 5-night bill for $15 and headed out to the marketplace for a spectacular lunch. I think it was the best food I have had in Greece. We boarded our boat the Miaoulis after taking a 50-cent cab fare to the docks. We had a second-class cabin for our overnight trip. It was smaller than the ship we had our last overnight trip on but very clean and much newer. As we left the harbour at 7 p.m. I think we both decided Crete is the worst place in Greece we have been to. We ate our sandwiches we brought on deck. A couple of kookie guys from Austria invited us to the bar for a drink. One of them had rings all over his fingers and was wearing beads.

July 29, 1970: We had a good sleep aboard the ship and jammed up some buns we had brought for our breakfast. At 1 Mom went to the snack bar and we had a portacolada with salami on a bun. We arrived on Skiros at 2 p.m.

“Travels to a Different Time” : July 1970: On the Island of Crete at St. Nicolas: Bad Experience With Surly and Rude Cretans; Greece on $5.00 a Day!

We had a rough 6-hour trip on the ship called Evagelsteriga. However we were going with the waves as opposed to crashing against them. When we arrived at St. Nicolas, we found a C class motel called Dulac which is quite accurate as we are facing a saltwater lagoon. Our hotel is newly constructed and we are paying $3 a night double occupancy. We lugged our packs and both had a hot shower and headed out for dinner. It’s funny after being on a ship for a few hours when you get off the ship you still feel like you are rocking back and forth. We found a restaurant called El Greco and had a big lamb dinner. Mom had some argument with the hotel owner over what I am not sure so we are out of here on the next ship to Iraklion.

Letter from Margaret Mary Stephen to son Andrew Stephen: First thing we did upon arrival was to go to the post office to see if there were any letters from you. There was no mail from you or Barbara. Before breakfast this morning we went for a swim in the saltwater lagoon. It has a swimming part to it with lanes and a high diving board. Our hotel is newly constructed and one of the nicest hotels we have stayed at. Robert has gone spearfishing and I am sitting on the balcony enjoying the cool breeze. I should go out and get a new bathing suit as a dog chewed up my shoulder straps. I think you would love the Greek islands of which there are many and its very cheap for Canadians. On some of the islands you can stay and eat for $5.00 a day. The hotel is $3.00 a night. In Canada you would pay thirty. The Greeks are fabulously clean but do not use deodorant. After Crete we shall go to Skiros and Skopelos and then to Thessaloniki. There is so much to do here I do not think we will be going to Spain…maybe next year. I will say so far in Cete and hopefully this is only St. Nicolas the people are surly and rude so unlike the other islands. We will be happy to leave here on the next boat out in three days. Love Mom

Photo is of DuLac Hotel

“Travels to a Different Time” :July 1970: The Wedding at Menetis, The Gross Hacking Cough and Goat Stew!

We returned from Orthos and found a hotel room in Pigadia. While we were in Orthos we received an invitation to a wedding being held in nearby Menetis a very famous church in Karpathos. We took the bus there and the wedding was at a church sitting on top of a mountain. The groom marched with a procession to the bride’s house and then a large crowd marched to the church for the ceremony. After being in Father Gabriel’s church on Panormitis I was at ease in a Greek Orthodox church with the chanting and incense. I love the icons and decoration as they make an Anglican church so sparse and unwelcoming. The ceremony was long and I thought the bride and groom circling the altar was strange but part of a colourful and joyous ceremony. It seemed everybody in Orthos had been invited to the wedding. This included strangers like us who were the only tourists at this wedding. Why these adventures just keep on coming! It seems once you leave North America for something different everything changes. As one hippy on deck class said when you are in Greece you are living in the moment as your mind is far from where it usually is. I am not sure what that means? What I can say is that the air is different. The sounds are new. The food is so much better as you are taking the time to enjoy it. I am not watching the adventure here in Greece I am living it. Perhaps that is what the hippy meant by saying you are living in the moment? It is almost as if there is no past and nothing else to think about except what you are doing now?

After the ceremony we went to a reception at the church. There was feta cheese, olives and bread to start and then some old ladies were cooking goat stew and rice in huge black cauldrons over an open fire. So we lined up and were served the most delicious stew. Goat meat makes a very good stew! How many people in Montreal have eaten goat? I also have eaten squid, octopus and stuffed vegetables. I love Greek food except for the starvation like breakfasts but even those I am getting used to and if you are eating bread and jam you soon get to appreciate quality bread! These new foods are delicious. It is almost as you are paying attention to each bite as you have never eaten these foods before.

There were huge jugs of wine that were poured into pitchers for serving. Before our meal there was a toast to the bride and groom. One glass was handed full of wine that passed to everyone at the table for a sip. My poor mother! Next to us was an old fellow with a very hacking cough and he then passed the glass to Mom who just about turned green but closed her eyes and took a sip. She looked at me and whispered that she hoped the poor fellow didn’t have tuberculosis. I have never seen anyone with that disease but my Mom was a nurse before she married and she has seen TB ! At midnight we headed home but the bus we took up to the church was no longer running. Were we to walk down the mountain in the middle of the night? Luckily we managed to get a lift back to Pigadia! What a night. What more adventures await us. I am a 12-year-old boy but I must say I feel like I am growing up very quickly seeing a whole new world every day! I find it hard to make decisions about what may be good or bad about my adventures as they are so strange I only have time to live them and not judge them.

Travels to a Different Time :July 1970: Our Trip to Orthos : Otherworldly and Conservative

We took the bus to Dino and Poppy’s town Orthos. We waited a couple of hours in a café before Poppy came to pick us up. As soon as we arrived at her house Dino, Mom and I took the bus to a beach called Finiki. We had an early supper then went to bed tired from the sun and salt water! The next day we visited some springs a couple of kilometres from Orthos and upon returning home I felt sick. Perhaps too much sun. I felt better the next day and took the bus to a quiet beach not far away. The next day we said goodbye to Dino and Poppy and returned by bus to Pigadia.

Letter from Margaret Mary Stephen to daughter Barbara Stephen: You wouldn’t believe the setting I am in sitting in a café in the town square that only has two tables. At the next table there is a fat Greek lady clothed in black from head to toe with a black scarf around her head and neck. We have been invited by a lady called Poppy to visit her house in this small mountain village of Orthos. We dropped off our luggage at her house and went to a peculiar place called Finiki to swim. The women were on one side of the beach and the men at the other. The older women were behind some rocks fully clothed and sunbathing. This is simply another world and I love it.  I just prayed that we would make it! It was a terrifying ride here with sheer drops on the road to the ocean crashing below. We saw a man with an octopus who was smashing it against the rock to tenderize it. There is simply too much to see in Greece! Before we came here we went to a party in Pigadia full of young people. The girls were sitting in one room and their watchful mothers in another. Do the men think North American girls are bad? There are only a few men at the party and most are not good looking but they all have neat, tidy and short hair. Some are university students. We are going to leave Karpathos soon. I shouldn’t stay in the water long as I have a terrible sunburn on my legs. It really hurts so much in the sun I start to cry. My back has given me no problems in Greece. I need this dry heat so Greece and Spain are for me in my old age. Anything to avoid back pain. They are very slow in the restaurants and I have been overcharged a few times. I just hate that. They must think all tourists are millionaires. But a few bad eggs should not spoil this. Greece is a fabulous country both people wise and geographically. Its s beyond belief! Love Mom.

RKS Wine: Is It Time to Escape Italian Pinot Grigio?

The immensely popular Pinot Grigio Santa Margherita from Italy is a huge seller at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. I seem to face walls of it. I have no idea why it is so popular and at $20.95 given its poor overcropped and dilute quality I just shake my head and say it is part of an illogical craze like Fuzion Malbec from Argentina was in yesteryear. Yes you are entitled to drink what you like and I can live with that provided you get off the treadmill of conformity and comfort and try a few others. The Okanagan in British Columbia, Lake Erie North Shore and Niagara in Ontario can do better. There are also plenty of Pinot Gris from Alsace so you want to try like a much cheaper Joseph Cattin at $14.95.

It is golden coloured with a tinge of pink. The first characteristic you might notice is its spicy nose. Add to that some apricot, pineapple, pear and apple crumble. On the palate some peach, tangerine, honey, mango and guava. A short finish. Sum it up with the word lively and expressive and that fits the bill.  Why not get some friends together and put 3 Pinot Gris/Grigio in a bag to cover the label then pour and see which one is the winner?

It will suit roast pork or chicken with roast potatoes and asparagus.  Alternatively, when May arrives with fresh local asparagus try it with grilled asparagus or a vegetarian Umbrian Carbonara made with asparagus instead of pancetta or ham. Thinking ahead to Thanksgiving a great accompaniment to turkey or Cornish Hen.

(Joseph Cattin 2019 Pinot Gris, AC Alsace, Cattin, Haut-Rhin, France, $14.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 196956, 750 mL, 13%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 90/100).

Extortion and Robbery on My Hospital Visit

Off today for a 6. A.M appointment for an MRI
small consolation at least there was no radioactive dye
strapped in like a self harmer at a psychiatric institute
a cruel bar on my chin made me mute
this procedure can be a real brute
my parking ticket says thanks for supporting research dreamt up in the hospital marketing department by a suit!

$14.45 for less than an hour
the extortion and robbery made my wallet take a scour
rather leaves one in a victim mode
like a helpless toad

Robert K. Stephen

Travels to a Different Time: July 1970: In Pigadia on Karpathos: The Incredible Friendliness of the Greeks! Getting Invited to Our First Party! Anti-Greek Riot in Toronto

As a 12-year-old my travels have been in the New England States and in Canada. I will say the Greek people are incredibly friendly. Why is this? In many of the smaller cities and towns there are so few tourists I think we are a novelty and Greeks are very proud that we have come to visit their country. They want the world to know how hospitable they are.  Also there are so many Greeks here that have family members in Canada, The United States, England, Australia and South Africa and they want to know more about life there. Perhaps they feel they are repaying Canadians like us for accepting so many Greeks? There was a big civil war in Greece a few decades ago and times were rough. Also during the Second World War Greece had its Jewish population decimated by the Germans and its brave resistance fighters paid a terrible price for their resistance. In some cases whole villages were murdered by mass executions and in a couple of cases families of resistance members were locked in churches and the churches burnt. Yet there are so many German tourists here bringing in lots of cash to what still is a poor country.

A Greek told me about a big anti-Greek riot in 1918 in Toronto where some scumbag Canadians rioted after a Greek disabled war veteran struck a waiter in a tavern and that sparked an anti-Greek riot as there was jealousy amongst the sum bags about the hardworking Greeks and their success in the restaurant business. There was also a rumour that Greeks were pro-Nazi a terrible insult to the bravery of the Greek resistance against the Germans and a dirty lie. I was so embarrassed hearing this story and the person who told me could see how bad I felt but offered comfort and said that I had nothing to do with it and I would grow to love the Greek people the longer I stayed in this country. The fact that he had tears in his eyes made me feel so very low Canadians could act in this shameful way. My mother then told me a story about my grandmother Relyea who had taken my Mom out for an ice cream in Toronto when she was a child. There was a Greek scooper who put the scooper back in a container of water that was cloudy with ice cream remnants. My Nanny said that Greeks were unclean! I just shrivelled up like a raisin when I heard this story. My own grandmother.

The fisherman dropped us off in the main city of the island of Karpathos called Pigadia. We went to an outdoor café for a “portocalada” which was carbonated orange juice. We did find a small and very clean hotel. Mom and I had a room and Flick and Bruce stayed on the rooftop with their sleeping bags, The owner’s wife was a real nag about sand in the rooms. The next day a real jackpot for a Canadian boy used to a big breakfast. Fried eggs although they were swimming in olive oil of course which I took advantage of and dipped my bread in it! We stayed another couple of days with delicious fried eggs for breakfast. While we were sitting in a café a couple Dinos and Poppy were at the next table and out of the blue asked us to a party at their house in a mountain town called Orthos. So that day we hopped on a bus and went to the party. We ate so many delicious snacks. I think a Greek hostess is proud when you compliment her food and if you do well “have another” is the result. I found the party a bit boring but when you don’t speak Greek it is hard to be part of the party. We left at 1 a.m. and I think the party was just warming up. The Greeks seem make the most of their summer! When we left Poppy asked us to return and stay at her house for a few days. How very nice and hospitable. When we go walking in the evening in these smaller towns people sitting outside their houses come out and ask us to join them. Mom will have a coffee and of course cookies and I have a special treat which is vanilla I think on a spoon in cold water. So I spent a few evenings outside on a terrace watching the world go by connecting with other human beings who I am beginning to see not as Greeks but fellow human beings. This is what travel can do to a young mind.