RKS Wine: Wildass Red: Can the Sum Total Overcome Certain Individual Varietals?

Ontario produces some superb Cabernet Francs. One might say it is Ontario’s red wine strength. There is Cabernet Franc in this obnoxiously named wine perhaps better suited to the rodeo circuit in Florida. But there is also Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah none of which individually craft remarkable wines in Ontario. However in the blending game anything is possible as the sum may be far superior to its individual components. Wildass Red did not disappoint the last time tried. What about this time?

The wine has the beginning of a charming, warm and inviting red wine. Some vibrant red cherry swirls about in the glass raising hope for more enchantment. Lesser notes of blackberry and raspberry and a bit of smoke. So far so good but as for excellence at this point more depth on the nose could take this wine over the gold medal finish line. On the palate the feeble black cherry, kirsch and blackberry falls short of a gold medal game. The gentle tannins make this an easy drinking wine and it would suit simple grilled fare such as sausage on a bun or Portobello burgers. The Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon don’t create any magic. But I will say so much wine these days is essentially dead wine dulled by chemical baths. This is not a dead wine. It simply lacks class in its assemblage.

(Wildass Red 2018, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Stratus Vineyards, Niagara-on-the-Lake, $21.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 86363, 750 mL, 12.3%,RKS Wine Rating 88/100).

Published by Robert K Stephen (CSW)

Robert K Stephen writes about food and drink, travel, and lifestyle issues. He is one of the few non-national writers to be certified as a wine specialist by the Society of Wine Educators, in Washington, DC. Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden and the University of Toronto. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he has established this publication. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write."

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