RKS 2023 Wine: Drinking Prohibited Wine in The Azores! Please Crowdfund Me to Liberate Me from My Prison!

I sit in the Pico Island Prison for Foreign Wine Writers! The food is so damn good here and the weather is so shitty in Toronto plus the wine they serve beats the shit they serve at the South Detention Centre in Toronto so I think the slammer here ain’t so bad. In fact I have two tattoos already one on my butt of the Pico Island Volcano!

How did they nab me. I blame the Azores Wine Company giving me a bottle of wine Proibida which I found out later means prohibited! They could have told me before that! The label was all crossed out in red so I didn’t know what the hell I was drinking! The Azores Wine Company set me up!

It is a spicy and intriguing wine that the Azorean Wine Company folks violated Portuguese labeling laws with so instead of throwing them out they served it to foreign wine writers. Stinkers! I mean if I was in a better mood I would give it a 92 and eat it tonight with the Holy Ghost Stew they are serving for dinner. Since they have violated the wine bible of Portugal bureaucracy they serve it to all wine writer prisoners here….of which I am the only one.

For God’s sake don’t drink this in the Azores in Portugal or you may die in prison here! Of course now I have mentioned it now will be retailing for thousands of dollars once Robert Parker gives it a 89.999. The cardiologist and neurosurgeons will be guzzling it up while I sit in this prison dreaming of drinking Spumante Bambino!

At my arrest I pleaded ignorance!

RKS 2023 Wines: Drinking the Way of the Dinosaur!

Terrantez do Pico is one of three indigenous Azorean grapes and it is close to going the way of the dinosaur.

It has somewhat of a tropical nose with pineapple, guava and mango.

The palate is creamy with tropical notes mixed with spice and just a bit of Prince Edward Island red soil potatoes with a sting of acidity, minerality and salinity. A definite foil for some spicy Azorean seafood.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating 90/100.

Somewhere in the 75 USD range.

(Terrantez do Pico 2018 António Maçanita, I.G. Açores, Azores Wine Company, 750 mL, 12.5%)

RKS Wine 2023: Falerina Reserva Syrah from Valle de Elqui

The Elqui Valley is set at the southern edge of the Atacama Desert and is one of Chile’s northernmost wine producing regions. Its crystal-clear skies attract some of the world’s most important observatories and create unique opportunities for winegrowing as well. New vineyards have expanded beyond its riverbanks and high up into the mountains in recent years, painting the otherwise dry region with a lush green stripe. Syrah is the leading red grape and Sauvignon Blanc among whites.

The grapes are from the Titón Vineyard 18 kms from the Pacific Ocean and at 350 metres of attitude.

Aroma: Virtually pulsating with black fruit or deep and booming if you like. Beneath the blueberry, black cherry and cassis a bright shining light of raspberry  sends its beam piercing through the wine adding a seductive peek a boo to the wine.

Palate: Tannins are in the high moderate level. A full-bodied wine indeed. Peppery with a bit of a chalky finish. Black cherry rules. A very long finish.

Personality: I am a willful and forceful wine with just a bit of softness on the nose with that mischievous streak of raspberry.

Food match: A Portuguese francesinha sandwich or perhaps some Tuscan wild boar stew!

Cellarbility: Will peak in 2025 but could possibly cruise into 2027.

Price: $22.95 (Ontario).

In a nutshell: BMOC (Big Man on Campus) yet that raspberry on the nose saves him from being a frat brat.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 89/100. 2021 World Wine Awards 95.

(Falerina Titón Single Vineyard Reserva Syrah 2017, D.O, Valle de Elqui, Viña Falerina, Vicuña, Chile, 750 mL, 14.5% Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 27198.)

RKS 2023 Wine: Portugal Charging Ahead with Wine and Tourism Strategy

I was invited to apply to attend the first Wine and Travel Week in Porto from 20-26 February 2023. There were sessions on wine and food, mega lunches featuring Portuguese seafood and meat prepared by Portugal’s leading chefs. There was an awards ceremony for tourism which due to administrative error and clerical lack of discretion I was wrongly denied entry. There were local tourism boards promoting their wines, wine routes and tourist destinations There were 3 day trips to all Portuguese vinicultural districts focusing on wine tourism and food. I was delighted to visit Pico Island in the Azores. It was so invigorating I forgot the numerous gaffes by organizers, aborted landings and airplane turn backs.

Food, gastronomy, music and wine at Adega Czar on Pico Island: Photo Robert K. Stephen

But the bottom-line is that Portugal has formally recognized and publicized the link between wine, gastronomy and tourism sort of a triad of reality to fully develop tourism. It is no longer de riguer to simply visit a winery see the tanks and facilities and have a tasting. There should be local food products at the tasting, the region’s restaurants and hotels should carry local wines. The goal is to beyond wine and see the attractions of the area. Somewhat like wine, gastronomy and tourism being a team. In fact journalists wishing to attend had a distinct advantage of being invited if they had experience with wine, gastronomy and tourism. I had this background and was the only Canadian journalist invited.

The Algarve exhibit promising more than sun and beach! : Photo Robert K. Stephen

Here in Canada we have many wineries in Nova Scotia, Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia that have spiffy dining facilities which we all know attract tourists but I am unaware of a formalized approach here in Canada like Wine and Travel Week. A possibility provincial and federal Canadian governments, local destinations, hospitality venues and wineries should collaborate to emulate the Portuguese model. Does this approach explain why you see more Portuguese wines being sold in Canada than Canadian wines sold in Portugal. To see the programme for the First Annual Wine and Travel week https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QiNTE4T96AJ9tBJakF4hIdzQEwBYJSu3/view?eg_sub=35de413a8c&eg_cam=7b62733a2d526bf92e9fe37cb82ee7a9&eg_list=1

I would say if there were wineries from Chile and Southeast Australia exhibiting their touristic and gastronomic experiences there is a place for Canadian exhibitors next year.

RKS 2023 Wine: António Maçanita’s 2020 Reserva Palpite: An Alentejo Classic?

Red wines from Portugal’s Alentejo region often nip at the heels of red wines from Portugal’s Douro region. António Maçanita’s 2020 Reserva Palpite is up there with some of the best reds from the Douro.

It is a blend of Alicante Bouschet (27%), Aragonez (25%), Castelăo (14%), Tricanderia (14%), Alfrochiero (12%) and 8 % of other grapes. This IG Alentejano clocks in at 14.5%.

You can find this wine in Portugal in the 20 Euro range and that is a steal.

Aroma: Blueberry, blackberry, cassis, cranberry and coal.

Palate: Full tannins with a massive blueberry attack with discrete acidity. Well balanced with a long finish.

Food match: Azorean beef or spicy Azorean limpets or perhaps Azorean crabs in a spicy sauce.

Azorean beef suited this wine at the Azores Wine Company’s restaurant on Pico Island: Photo; Robert K. Stephen

Personality: A tough but suave politician.

Cellarbility: Will improve through to 2028 and cruise past 2030.

In a nutshell: An exceptional red wine from the Alentejo.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 93/100. Robert Parker 93.

RKS 2023 Wines: 2020 Vinha Centenária from Azores Wine Company

The 2020 Vinha Centenária António Maçanita from the Azores Wine Company on Pico Island is a blend of Arinto dos Açores, Verdelho, Alicante Branco and Boal. 13.5% alcohol.

Aroma: There is volcanic rock, salinity, oranges and pineapple.

Palate: Creamy, peppery, restrained acidity, marmalade, Creamsicle with a super long finish.

Food Match: Simply prepared seafood steak.

Grouper steak at Azores Wine Company restaurant: Photo Robert K. Stephen

Personality: Proud Pico Islander in a bottle.

Cellarbility: So good consume now but will cruise into 2026 nicely.

Price: In Canada in the $105 range.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 94/100. Wine Advocate 95.

RKS Travel and Wine: TAP Portugal Airlines Has its 750 mL Wine Bottles Crying

I frequently give most European Airlines a pat on the back for serving wine in economy class from 750 mL bottles instead of those obnoxious mini plastic bottles which is all the more obnoxious in the case of Air Canada which adds insult to injury by serving French wine! A national carrier of Canada serving French wine! Tsk Tsk!

A shining light in the Canadian air carrier category is Porter Airlines serving CANADIAN wine in REAL GLASSES! How come Porter and TAP Portugal Airlines serve wine from 750 mL bottles in economy but Air Canada can’t?

Porter’s onboard experience transforms expectations for economy air travel. Each partner was carefully selected for its locality, quality ingredients, brand alignment, and focus on sustainability. (CNW Group/Porter Airlines)

Flying on TAP Air Portugal from Toronto to Lisbon return this February I was shocked to have wine served to me in a paper cup! Of course plastic is a nasty environmental mess but please wine in a paper cups that are thrown in the trash by the TAP flight attendants seem not much better than plastic glasses! Oh my! This was not some “supply chain issue” but rather the way things are according to a TAP flight attendant.

TAP rewards its economy passengers with wine in paper cups like the ones your dentist gives you to flush out your mouth!: Photo Robert K. Stephen

In Pico Island in the Azores they have a saying that you should plant your vines where you can hear the crabs singing. On my TAP flights there were no crabs singing but I thought I could hear those 750 mL wine bottles crying.

RKS Literature: A Tobacco Addict in 1924 Speaks

“ I don’t understand how someone can not be a smoker-why it’s like robbing oneself of the best part of life, so as to speak, or at least of an absolutely first-rate pleasure. When I wake up I look forward to be able to smoke all day, and when I eat, I look forward to it again, in fact I can honestly say that I actually only eat so that I can smoke, although its an exaggeration of course. But a day without tobacco-that would be absolutely insipid, a dull totally wasted day. And if some morning I had to tell myself: there’s nothing left to smoke today, why I don’t think I’d find the courage to get up, I swear I’d say in bed.”

Thomas Mann “The Magic Mountain”, 1924.

RKS 2023 Wine: An Arinto from Pico Island in the Azores

Being in Pico Island lately I was lodged at the Azores Wine Company’s winery. Hipster heaven! Modern showcase winery, tasting room, great views of vineyards, volcanic mountains and lots of staff sporting a multitude of tattoos. Rather an opposite of, pardon me, an authentic Pico Island Winery. At Azores Wine Company eating in the restaurant, you’ll be eating nouvelle cuisine which you can consume in New York. London, Paris or Toronto. Generic upscale McDonalds?   Super high quality indeed but poor misguided me prefers the “authentic Pico Island cuisine” I had at Adega Czar or at Adega Amaral. Did I travel hours to eat what I can eat in many capitals of the world? No.

Sorry for the digression.

We move to an Arinto Sur Lies from the Azores Wine Company at 36 Euros a bottle!

The Arinto dos Açores is apparently a unique varietal native to the Azores Islands and is not related to the Portuguese mainland Arinto. The Arinto has been planted in the cracks of volcanic lava at the foothills of a volcanic mountain. 3,333 bottles were produced.

Aroma: That slight funky initial Arinto dos Açores possesses. Pineapple mango and guava. Almost creamy.

Palate: Brittle creaminess with pineapple, guava and rambutan notes. Minerality but no salinity. Slightly peppery.

Personality: Swaggering and confident.

Callability: Will improve but consume by end of 2026.

Price: 35.80 Euros in Portugal.

Food Match: Thai green curry. A real foodie wine. Will pair well with a “seafood steak”!

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 90/100.

(Arinto dos Açores Sur Lies 2017 António Maçanita, D.O. Pico Açores, Azores Wine Company, Pico Island, Portugal, 750 mL)

RKS 2023 Wine and Travel: Pico Islander’s Maxim “Plant Your Vines Where You Can Hear the Crabs Singing”

On Pico Island in the Portuguese Azores  there is an old maxim with grape producers, “Plant your vines where you hear the crabs singing.” Why?

Vines protected by Currais: Photo Robert K. Stephen

Pico Island is blessed with a temperate climate being an island in the Atlantic ocean benefitting from a maritime climate. But Pico Island is really a volcanic mountain itself. And the higher you plant your vines the colder it gets which makes a difference in Pico Island as even in the summer months it never gets hot although I have heard from a Pico Islander that climate change has caused rises in summer temperatures. It is best then to plant your vines close to the ocean in currais which are micro plots encircled by square lava rock walls. These enclosures remind me by misguided analogy of terracing in the Douro region of Portugal. So what about the salt from the ocean spraying over the grapes. Well the abundant rainfall washes most of that salt of but in some Pico Island wines you may notice the salinity. As the best plots are close to the ocean you are in a location where you hear the crabs singing!