RKS Literature: Do You Want to Be Cared for By a Sick Doctor?

“A warm relationship between doctor and patient is certainly to be welcomed, and there is something to the proposition that only he who suffers can be the guide and healer of the suffering. But can someone truly be the intellectual master of a power to which he himself is enslaved. Can he liberate if he himself is not free? To the average person, the idea of a sick physician remains a paradox, a problematical phenomenon. Instead of being intellectually enriched and morally strengthened by his experience, may he not perhaps find that his knowledge of the disease becomes clouded and confused? He no longer stares down the illness with a hostile eye: he is biased and hardly unequivocal. With all due respect, one must ask whether someone who is part of the world of illness can indeed be interested in curing or even nursing others in the same way a healthy person can.”

Thomas Mann “The Magic Mountain” 1924

RKS 2023 Wine: “The Wines of the Algarve”: Escaping the Sun and Sea Conundrum

I attended the Wine and Tourism Week in late February in Porto, Portugal. The direction seemingly taken by many exhibitors was to move away from promoting wine and broaden it to encompass not only wine but culture and heritage, leisure activities and gastronomic experiences therefore giving a broader definition of wine tourism. Wine is not all but a gateway to other touristic experiences.

The Algarve Wine Region is in the southernmost part of Portugal, along the coast of the Atlantic. Despite its coastal location, the region has a Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and mild winters which allows for the production of high-quality wines. The Algarve is known for both red and white wines which are made from a blend of local and international grape varieties. The Algarve has a unique terroir which includes the influence of the ocean and the rolling hills that provide ample sunshine and protection from the wind. 80% of the wine produced is consumed within the region.

Now mention the Algarve and most people think sun and beach! I have been in the Algarve in 1978 and 2012 and that quaint fishing village with packs of stray dogs now is high rise heaven packed with Brits enjoying their baked beans, eggs and toast at buffet breakfasts. And yes Irish pubs in the Algarve? Yes. Certainly there is more to the Algarve than this! Tourist authorities in the Algarve and in Lisbon are trying to persuade you while you can have the sun and the beach there is wine, culture and gastronomy awaiting you. God help us all if the Algarve becomes a Malagouf!

As Joăo Fernades President of the Algarve Tourism Board has stated,” The Algarve Tourism Board has put wine, along with gastronomy and heritage, at the centre of its marketing strategy as a priority product for the development of local tourism. The entire region is aware of the need to revitalise the sector, promoting its wines and wine tourism projects and positioning itself as a multi-faceted destination with a tourism offering that far exceeds the traditional “Sun and Sea” product.”

RKS Literature: Looking Forward to Funerals!

“I think of a coffin as an absolutely lovely piece of furniture, even when it’s empty, and if there is someone lying in it, it’s quite sublime in my eyes. There’s something so edifying about funerals-I’ve sometime thought that when we need a little spiritual uplift, we should attend funerals rather than church. People wear their best black clothes and take their hats off and gaze at the coffin and seem so serious and devout and no one dares to make bad jokes, the way they normally do.”

Thomas Mann “The Magic Mountain” 1924

RKS 2023 Wine: Drinking Prohibited Wine in The Azores! Please Crowdfund Me to Liberate Me from My Prison!

I sit in the Pico Island Prison for Foreign Wine Writers! The food is so damn good here and the weather is so shitty in Toronto plus the wine they serve beats the shit they serve at the South Detention Centre in Toronto so I think the slammer here ain’t so bad. In fact I have two tattoos already one on my butt of the Pico Island Volcano!

How did they nab me. I blame the Azores Wine Company giving me a bottle of wine Proibida which I found out later means prohibited! They could have told me before that! The label was all crossed out in red so I didn’t know what the hell I was drinking! The Azores Wine Company set me up!

It is a spicy and intriguing wine that the Azorean Wine Company folks violated Portuguese labeling laws with so instead of throwing them out they served it to foreign wine writers. Stinkers! I mean if I was in a better mood I would give it a 92 and eat it tonight with the Holy Ghost Stew they are serving for dinner. Since they have violated the wine bible of Portugal bureaucracy they serve it to all wine writer prisoners here….of which I am the only one.

For God’s sake don’t drink this in the Azores in Portugal or you may die in prison here! Of course now I have mentioned it now will be retailing for thousands of dollars once Robert Parker gives it a 89.999. The cardiologist and neurosurgeons will be guzzling it up while I sit in this prison dreaming of drinking Spumante Bambino!

At my arrest I pleaded ignorance!

RKS 2023 Wines: Drinking the Way of the Dinosaur!

Terrantez do Pico is one of three indigenous Azorean grapes and it is close to going the way of the dinosaur.

It has somewhat of a tropical nose with pineapple, guava and mango.

The palate is creamy with tropical notes mixed with spice and just a bit of Prince Edward Island red soil potatoes with a sting of acidity, minerality and salinity. A definite foil for some spicy Azorean seafood.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating 90/100.

Somewhere in the 75 USD range.

(Terrantez do Pico 2018 António Maçanita, I.G. Açores, Azores Wine Company, 750 mL, 12.5%)

RKS Wine 2023: Falerina Reserva Syrah from Valle de Elqui

The Elqui Valley is set at the southern edge of the Atacama Desert and is one of Chile’s northernmost wine producing regions. Its crystal-clear skies attract some of the world’s most important observatories and create unique opportunities for winegrowing as well. New vineyards have expanded beyond its riverbanks and high up into the mountains in recent years, painting the otherwise dry region with a lush green stripe. Syrah is the leading red grape and Sauvignon Blanc among whites.

The grapes are from the Titón Vineyard 18 kms from the Pacific Ocean and at 350 metres of attitude.

Aroma: Virtually pulsating with black fruit or deep and booming if you like. Beneath the blueberry, black cherry and cassis a bright shining light of raspberry  sends its beam piercing through the wine adding a seductive peek a boo to the wine.

Palate: Tannins are in the high moderate level. A full-bodied wine indeed. Peppery with a bit of a chalky finish. Black cherry rules. A very long finish.

Personality: I am a willful and forceful wine with just a bit of softness on the nose with that mischievous streak of raspberry.

Food match: A Portuguese francesinha sandwich or perhaps some Tuscan wild boar stew!

Cellarbility: Will peak in 2025 but could possibly cruise into 2027.

Price: $22.95 (Ontario).

In a nutshell: BMOC (Big Man on Campus) yet that raspberry on the nose saves him from being a frat brat.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 89/100. 2021 World Wine Awards 95.

(Falerina Titón Single Vineyard Reserva Syrah 2017, D.O, Valle de Elqui, Viña Falerina, Vicuña, Chile, 750 mL, 14.5% Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 27198.)

RKS 2023 Wine: Portugal Charging Ahead with Wine and Tourism Strategy

I was invited to apply to attend the first Wine and Travel Week in Porto from 20-26 February 2023. There were sessions on wine and food, mega lunches featuring Portuguese seafood and meat prepared by Portugal’s leading chefs. There was an awards ceremony for tourism which due to administrative error and clerical lack of discretion I was wrongly denied entry. There were local tourism boards promoting their wines, wine routes and tourist destinations There were 3 day trips to all Portuguese vinicultural districts focusing on wine tourism and food. I was delighted to visit Pico Island in the Azores. It was so invigorating I forgot the numerous gaffes by organizers, aborted landings and airplane turn backs.

Food, gastronomy, music and wine at Adega Czar on Pico Island: Photo Robert K. Stephen

But the bottom-line is that Portugal has formally recognized and publicized the link between wine, gastronomy and tourism sort of a triad of reality to fully develop tourism. It is no longer de riguer to simply visit a winery see the tanks and facilities and have a tasting. There should be local food products at the tasting, the region’s restaurants and hotels should carry local wines. The goal is to beyond wine and see the attractions of the area. Somewhat like wine, gastronomy and tourism being a team. In fact journalists wishing to attend had a distinct advantage of being invited if they had experience with wine, gastronomy and tourism. I had this background and was the only Canadian journalist invited.

The Algarve exhibit promising more than sun and beach! : Photo Robert K. Stephen

Here in Canada we have many wineries in Nova Scotia, Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia that have spiffy dining facilities which we all know attract tourists but I am unaware of a formalized approach here in Canada like Wine and Travel Week. A possibility provincial and federal Canadian governments, local destinations, hospitality venues and wineries should collaborate to emulate the Portuguese model. Does this approach explain why you see more Portuguese wines being sold in Canada than Canadian wines sold in Portugal. To see the programme for the First Annual Wine and Travel week https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QiNTE4T96AJ9tBJakF4hIdzQEwBYJSu3/view?eg_sub=35de413a8c&eg_cam=7b62733a2d526bf92e9fe37cb82ee7a9&eg_list=1

I would say if there were wineries from Chile and Southeast Australia exhibiting their touristic and gastronomic experiences there is a place for Canadian exhibitors next year.

RKS 2023 Wine: António Maçanita’s 2020 Reserva Palpite: An Alentejo Classic?

Red wines from Portugal’s Alentejo region often nip at the heels of red wines from Portugal’s Douro region. António Maçanita’s 2020 Reserva Palpite is up there with some of the best reds from the Douro.

It is a blend of Alicante Bouschet (27%), Aragonez (25%), Castelăo (14%), Tricanderia (14%), Alfrochiero (12%) and 8 % of other grapes. This IG Alentejano clocks in at 14.5%.

You can find this wine in Portugal in the 20 Euro range and that is a steal.

Aroma: Blueberry, blackberry, cassis, cranberry and coal.

Palate: Full tannins with a massive blueberry attack with discrete acidity. Well balanced with a long finish.

Food match: Azorean beef or spicy Azorean limpets or perhaps Azorean crabs in a spicy sauce.

Azorean beef suited this wine at the Azores Wine Company’s restaurant on Pico Island: Photo; Robert K. Stephen

Personality: A tough but suave politician.

Cellarbility: Will improve through to 2028 and cruise past 2030.

In a nutshell: An exceptional red wine from the Alentejo.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 93/100. Robert Parker 93.

RKS 2023 Wines: 2020 Vinha Centenária from Azores Wine Company

The 2020 Vinha Centenária António Maçanita from the Azores Wine Company on Pico Island is a blend of Arinto dos Açores, Verdelho, Alicante Branco and Boal. 13.5% alcohol.

Aroma: There is volcanic rock, salinity, oranges and pineapple.

Palate: Creamy, peppery, restrained acidity, marmalade, Creamsicle with a super long finish.

Food Match: Simply prepared seafood steak.

Grouper steak at Azores Wine Company restaurant: Photo Robert K. Stephen

Personality: Proud Pico Islander in a bottle.

Cellarbility: So good consume now but will cruise into 2026 nicely.

Price: In Canada in the $105 range.

RKS 2023 Wine Rating: 94/100. Wine Advocate 95.

RKS Travel and Wine: TAP Portugal Airlines Has its 750 mL Wine Bottles Crying

I frequently give most European Airlines a pat on the back for serving wine in economy class from 750 mL bottles instead of those obnoxious mini plastic bottles which is all the more obnoxious in the case of Air Canada which adds insult to injury by serving French wine! A national carrier of Canada serving French wine! Tsk Tsk!

A shining light in the Canadian air carrier category is Porter Airlines serving CANADIAN wine in REAL GLASSES! How come Porter and TAP Portugal Airlines serve wine from 750 mL bottles in economy but Air Canada can’t?

Porter’s onboard experience transforms expectations for economy air travel. Each partner was carefully selected for its locality, quality ingredients, brand alignment, and focus on sustainability. (CNW Group/Porter Airlines)

Flying on TAP Air Portugal from Toronto to Lisbon return this February I was shocked to have wine served to me in a paper cup! Of course plastic is a nasty environmental mess but please wine in a paper cups that are thrown in the trash by the TAP flight attendants seem not much better than plastic glasses! Oh my! This was not some “supply chain issue” but rather the way things are according to a TAP flight attendant.

TAP rewards its economy passengers with wine in paper cups like the ones your dentist gives you to flush out your mouth!: Photo Robert K. Stephen

In Pico Island in the Azores they have a saying that you should plant your vines where you can hear the crabs singing. On my TAP flights there were no crabs singing but I thought I could hear those 750 mL wine bottles crying.