This is the last day in Samos. Another blue-sky day but on the balcony in our room overlooking the ocean the breeze was on the cool side and you certainly notice it on the beach. The top rated Doryssa breakfast at a table overlooking the ocean might constitute the gastronomic moment of the day. I always start the day with fruit and Doryssa has plenty of it including oranges, grapefruit and watermelon. There are 7 types of sliced meats and 4 types of just baked bread which you hold with a napkin when slicing. There are also varieties of cheese including feta and mizithra. The high fat Greek yogurt with honey is always a delightfully rare experience in North America where low fat is the norm. The scrambled eggs are not up to standard and the fried eggs are tough on the bottom but Greek eggs even when not perfectly prepared far surpass tasteless Canadian eggs. A delicious dark yolk almost orange in colour. The dining room is busy but we always manage to be seated outside overlooking the ocean. There are loads of European tourists at Doryssa Bay mostly Dutch and German. Lots of tattoos. Many children. There were feral dogs and cats with a few guests feeding them. Our Olympic Airlines flight had been “rescheduled” from 11 to 4:30. Delay means after two hours EU passenger compensation rules kick in so airlines in Europe “reschedule” as opposed to calling it a delay. As the rental car was due at noon we had some time to use so returned to T and P‘s house in Mytilini to pick up my hat I had left behind. After that picked up some saffron at a store P had recommended. A gram of organic Greek saffron for 3.65 Euros. In Athens P told us the same brand sells for 9 Euros.
At noon the car was returned to Auto Union at Samos Airport. When asked how the car was I noted two engine warning lights were on, the floor mats curled and the gas tank was not full when I picked up the car. The clerk seemed offended and stormed off. What a bozo company. Never again! It is a sham that they publish only glowing reviews about themselves. The roads in Samos are narrow but fun driving. The roads are winding so there is little opportunity for passing but that does not stop hot heads from tailgating and roaring out to pass you. Very few drivers here, like North America, observe the speed limit. You get a much better sense of the island and topography when driving as opposed to taking the bus which by the way has good service in Samos. We had 4 and a half hours to wait until our “rescheduled” flight departed for Thessaloniki. Being a tiny airport not much to do but sit outside and chat to people. Saw two West Highland Terriers just like our Dylan. Checked in early and sat in the modern departure lounge.
Two West Highland Terriers at Samos Airport (Photo Robert K. Stephen)
The flight to Thessaloniki was smooth and at airport picked up by a prearranged car. Our hotel Daios Luxury Living is on the main ocean promenade and we have a huge wrap around balcony overlooking the promenade and the ocean. Being a bit bushed I went out and rustled up some Mexican food which we had on our balcony along with a complimentary bottle of Crémant.
If I could sum up the Polish fantasy film “EO” I would say, “And the Oscar for Most Expressive Eyes Goes to EO the Polish Donkey”.
EO the donkey embarks upon an incredible journey without Sancho Panza on his back. Yes he is the cutest donkey in town with big expressive eyes that can melt your heart. EO leads viewers on through modern-day Poland exposing the foibles and saving graces of humanity but the foibles outnumber the graces. Yes like in Don Quixote EO even faces a wind turbine.
EO has a well measured temperament but as many of us dog and cat owners realize animals have a soul. They feel pain, joy, anger, frustration, love and fear. There is no such thing as a dumb animal. EO has a wide range of emotions but he simply can’t verbalize them in a sophisticated fashion. His eyes in many instances do the talking and on one occasion his hind legs!
Not getting didactic here but EO’s journey has many parables in it from Hansel and Gretel, Don Quixote and Winnie the Pooh. EO starts as a circus performer for a bankrupt Polish Circus then a mascot for a Polish soccer team and an aborted transport truck trip to a sausage factory just to briefly describe a few of EO’s adventures.
It is not for me to reveal all the adventures but they will enthrall often and at other times anger and disgust you. But it will be an odyssey you will not easily forget. You may even be haunted by it. The film is destined to spark an emotional response perhaps even questioning, let’s not get too Paul McCartneyish, consumption of meat.
How does EO’s journey end? THE SOUND before the credit’s roll may say it all. This is a film not suitable for children as they may be frightened by the two murder scenes. In fact some viewers may have difficulty identifying THE SOUND. If you do you may shout in disbelief and perhaps in anguish and then say how can humans be that mindless and stupid.
As a last comment I was 14 years old on a Greek island and heard the most bizarre sound one morning. I later found out it was a donkey braying. Later that day on the road outside the village a farmer was beating his donkey. It was an awful scene and I still remember it. I was comforted to see villagers intervene. When I saw that horrible aspect of inhumanity perhaps it was that donkey that sent me on a voyage to vegetarianism (except for turkey twice a year on family occasions and where there is no seafood on the menu). To that poor donkey in Greece in your memory I urge all of you to see EO. I have returned to Greece several times since and I have not seen any donkeys. Directed by Jerzy Skolimowski.
A very innovative use of music here ranging from classical, metal and opera.
RKS Film Rating 94/100.
You can see the trailer here and by the way the film opens in Canada for a theatrical run on November 25thhttps://vimeo.com/759936765
Paweł Łozińki in his “The Balcony Movie” lets us ride the portal of his camera lens into life not simply in Warzaw, Poland where it was filmed but life itself. He spent over two and a half years filming passersby’s beneath his balcony asking them the meaning of life and how they cope with life. He takes the time to ask what we want to ask of people but simply don’t have the time. You might think of him as an investigative journalist into “real life”.
Over 65 days of shooting some 2,000 people were talked to in a friendly and understanding tone by Łozińki with the filmmaker making no judgements abdicating that responsibility to the viewers. There is no sense in offering you a complete inventory of the subjects nor cataloguing their life reflections as that would ruin the fun. There is some flippancy amongst the subjects but there is pain, suffering, regret, joy, fear, pride, homophobia, nationalism, love, gossip, philosophical discussions, religion and what makes his subjects fulfilled just to give you a taste of what to expect. Subjects range from criminals, priests, pensioners and even toddlers.
Łozińki is easy with the camera refraining from polemics and judgement but no doubt you’ll form your own opinion. With some of the subjects he forms an ongoing relationship. Even amongst the regrets and bitterness there almost always is hope. Was it Jean-Paul Sartre that wrote “The Human Condition”? Well Łozińki has filmed the human condition in a neat package for us and since there must have been massive film editing here he has given us his view of what counts through that editing and he has created a masterpiece that many of us could have made had we the time! You might want to say in 95 minutes he just may have covered countless philosophical tracts on the meaning of life. It is a secular confession of life.
The film can be screened on MUBI as of November 30, 2022.
The sleeps are improving. Three days in Greece and finally feeling human. That 8-hour time difference from Toronto takes its toll plus the two flights. Off to the Doryssa breakfast at 09:00. Sweet watermelon, grapefruit slices, Greek yogurt and honey, a slice of yogurt cake and two cups of green tea. Not having tattoos, I feel out of place. Aside from the children just about everyone here at Doryssa has tattoos from young parents to 300-pound grannies. On younger people tattoos can have some artistic charm but as you age they start looking a bit raunchy. The staff just can’t seem to keep up with the breakfast surge. Short waits for replacement platters, utensils and cups. A result of COVID or cost cutting to compensate for loss of revenue due to COVID? The quantity of items at the buffet has decreased from our last visit.
One of two small restaurants in Mytilini (Photo Robert K. Stephen)
Off to T and P’s house in Mytilini for a light lunch. T and P are our Australian friends we made on our last visit to Samos. T and P are Aussie expats. We took the long route which is scenic up through scrub and pine forest. We were behind a tractor for half the trip and with winding narrow roads no passing opportunities. T was supposed to meet us at the village supermarket but due to some miscommunication he was not at the meeting place so we did find someone that knew T and P and guided us to their beautiful renovated house. There was some minor earthquake damage from the earthquake a few days ago. Mytilini is a quiet town bereft of tourists. A main street with a few shops with narrow winding streets to small homes. Two small restaurants. P was her usual ebullient self and of course being such a great chef there was no “light lunch” and instead a shrimp appetizer, a tower of roasted pork, chicken stifado, scalloped potatoes with rosé and white wine. I simply could not eat her homemade blueberry cheesecake! We talked about how reliant Greece is on tourism particularly the island of Samos that closes to tourists by mid October. The EU has given Greece 800 million Euros to help its tourist industry recover.
While in beautiful Beamsville last week I managed to stop in at Cave Spring’s new tasting facility. Very bright with lots of light steaming in and a marvelous view of vineyards through a wall of glass. It was quiet so there were no distractions except of course the blazing gold on the vines.
Pinot Noir can have brilliant moments in Ontario but they are rare and few. I have suffered through many tasteless attempts. Yes there are a few winners in Niagara and Prince Edward County. So I wonder what Cave Spring can do with its 2020 Dolomite Pinot Noir. Dolomite is named after the layer of dolostone that forms the cap rock of the Niagara Escarpment.
The aromas clearly denote a Pinot Noir blood line but very tight if not austere. Tightly wound strawberry, raspberry, Vermont North Hero Tudhope black licorice, Obidos cherry liqueur and a whiff of Mocha. On the palate the tannins are lurking but not pouncing. The fruit is tight as a nervous psychiatrist holding his copy of Jungian analysis behind his back. You have to lay the bottle on the couch and tell it to breath deeply and relax i.e. decant! Once the subject is relaxed we detect some high toned and jittery cherry and repressed raspberry. Internalized rage of strawberry perhaps because mama clone ignored the grapes when they were tender buds? The diagnosis according to the DSM Psychiatric Manual indicates shyosis which in lay terms the wine is excessively shy afraid to admit its beauty relying on a further bit of ageing to bring out its full potential. Even more simply put two or three more years in the bottle to meditate into adolescence and perhaps until 2030 to show its brilliance. And in this time frame expect a momentous Pinot Noir that will make mommy and daddy clone very proud of these grapes! The wine is a baby and thank goodness a pediatric psychiatrist is involved.
This is a wine that deserves a case purchase and two bottles a year to observe its evolution.
This is not a disappointing Ontario Pinot Noir.
(Cave Spring 2020 Pinot Noir Dolomite, VQA Beamsville Bench (Estate Grown), Cave Spring Vineyard, Jordon, Ontario, $27.95, 750 mL, 13%, (available at the winery and online) RKS Wine Rating 92/100).
After an almost three-year hiatus from in person wine exhibitions it was to Drink Chile 2022 Toronto at the Arcadian Court in downtown Toronto. I was in with the media at 1-4 and the general public followed from 6:30-9:00. It was sponsored by Wines of Chile and Prochile.
So where does Chile think it is heading? Aurelio Montes President of Vinos de Chile gave attendees some points to consider:
Wines of Chile launched the Sustainability Program for Chilean Wine in 2020. 79 wineries have joined the programme representing over 80% of fine wine exports
Regionality is the key to Chile’s stylistic development with winemakers striving to reflect the different terroirs Chile can offer especially in the cooler coastal areas and those in the Andean foothills
The diversity of Chilean wine stems from the country’s geography and unique climate
Chile has the ambition to be the number one producer of certified sustainable wines from the New World
The Province of Ontario is Canada’s largest market for Chilean wine representing over 40% of national Chilean sales meaning sales of $96 million and making Chile the 6th most important importing country in market share in Ontario.
Off to visit Vathi. But first that ballet of a breakfast at Doryssa Bay downstairs. There are many German, Nordic and Dutch tourists on Samos. North Americans are somewhat of the exception. Breakfast here by experience is hectic but sit outside in the summer air overlooking the ocean is a great pleasure. Why on earth would I want to eat inside! The buffet is complete and perhaps the most impressive one in Greece. I ate light with bread, eggs and some water being rather guarded with an upset tummy last night. I noted that the buffet has trimmed down from our last visit. And there are less staff as there was a wait for coffee cups and certain buffet items. Cost cutting due to COVID caused drop in revenue? Ran into a thuggish, burly and heavily tattooed Trumpist with a MAGA hat and an obese wife rather slovenly looking. I have seen this couple around. Tourists indeed! After the conclusion of our visit returned home for a swim, beer and a bag of oregano potato chips. As it is September the water has cooled down a bit and with a light wind it is almost chilly. There are so many tattooed people here. One Greek man with a young family had a massive tattoo of an eagle on his back. There was a huge German lady with each butt cheek the size of three watermelons sunning her back and butt as blazing sunburnt as they were. I headed off to Herion to find some souvlaki and was directed to the best souvlaki place in town but it was closed. I had trouble parking the car as stray cats had taken over the parking spot. Someone had to shoo them away. I returned home empty handed being informed by Fotini a staff member with a guest had entered the room while she was waiting for me. I phoned the front desk and received profuse apologies for this transgression. So off the Pythagoras to a local greasy spoon “Robinsons” for two souvlaki, fries and Greek Salad and some local rosé wine made with Folkiano grapes. Upon arriving back in the room greeted by an employee with a bottle of wine in an ice bucket and a bowl of fresh fruit with an apology note. Not expected but an attempt to placate irate guests.
Up at 06:45 for our flight from Athens to Samos. Taxi came to pick us up at 08:00 and off to the airport. Had a sandwich and a water at the airport. Saw a German family around asking where they could get a “real breakfast”. Saw them after eating eggs and ham! Sehr Gut! In the old way took a bus to the airplane on the tarmac. A small 30-seater prop and it was a 45-minute flight to Samos with a hearty breakfast of a cookie and some water. The lady from Trans Union car rental was in the lobby of the tiny airport with a” Robert Stephen” sign. Their office was a short walk from the arrivals lounge. A small red Suzuki with only 5/8 in the tank and two warning lights on. She swiped the credit card some 4 times with no luck. Almost had to grab the card from her as who wants a compromised card frozen. Upgraded to a suite overlooking the ocean. Trying the road and car took a short trip to beach town of Herion. After 5 years a swim in the ocean! We do like the Doryssa Bay Resort but it is right over the flight path to the airport so thank goodness there are not that many flights into Samos as the planes are about 600 feet overhead. The drive to the town of Pythagoras is a few minutes away and you can park in a big dusty lot outside of town. The place is crammed with tourists almost all European. Went to Knife and Fork overlooking the harbour recommended to Fotini by a friend. I had oven roasted pork shank and Fotini a blue cheese burger. Not bad for mostly vegetarians. When you don’t eat much meat and eat it this may cause tummy and digestive issues as it did to me. The Greek salad was good but Samian tomatoes are no tastier than our tomatoes in Toronto. Years ago they were much sweeter. Complimentary ice cream and watermelon for dessert but given the gurgling stomach I passed. Dinner with a beer and Greek salad was 36 Euros. Oh glorious sleep! Crashed blissfully at 23:30!
Bad Axe is a small town in Michigan. It is home to the Siev family. Father Chun is a refugee from Khmer Rouge Cambodia. Chun escaped with his mother and six children to Thailand and then moved to the United States. His father “disappeared” in Cambodia. Chun was tortured and beaten witnessing executions and atrocities.
In the shadow of “Donut King” Ted Ngoy the Siev family opened a donut shop in Bad Axe later opening a family restaurant “Rachels”. With great sacrifices and hard work they managed to run a successful establishment. Rachel is Chun’s wife and is of Mexican American descent.
By March 2020 COVID slammed Michigan with in restaurant dining prohibited and take out permitted. The Siev family faced racist slurs no doubt buoyed by the Dangerous Man rebranding COVID as Kung Flu and the China Virus. Rachels was struggling to stay afloat. Chun admits he was more fearful of COVID than the Killing Fields of Cambodia. What he endured appears to have given him a survivalist mentality and some post traumatic stress disorder he suffers from daily. Then George Floyd being murdered and civil unrest spreading throughout United States makes life a bit more complicated.
Matters come to a head in the Siev family when several of the children and their partners join a BLM march in Bad Axe. Armed paramilitary members menacingly watch the march unmolested by the local police. Chun supports the young folks participating in the BLM march but states that the family has struggled so fiercely in America often being silent on social issues for fear of retaliation. One can see this type of reasoning in the 1987 documentary “Who Killed Vincent Chin” with that murder by baseball bat committed in Detroit Michigan. Local supporters of the Dangerous Man harass the Siev family in confrontations in their restaurant and by harassing calls and tailing their young daughter in pick up trucks adorned with Trump and Confederate flags. In fact one white supremacist is arrested in Bad Axe for terrorizing a family.
The Siev family anxiously and with great trepidation watches Biden defeat Trump in the United States presidential election and there is relief in the air.
An interesting view of right-wing hatred in the United States and the resilience of those facing it. And I think we know who loves whipping it up even in post insurrectionist America.
There will be a theatre and on demand release on November 18th. The documentary has won over 15 awards to date including winner of the Audience Award and Special Jury Mention at SXSW. A David Siev film.
If you appreciate laid back luxury in a quiet setting The Woodbourne Inn in St. Davids, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario will be for you. Not that the “old town” of Niagara-on-the-Lake, a mere 15-minute drive, is a bustling urban metropolis but it can be busy with day trippers crowding the streets eating ice cream cones wandering amongst kitschy shops and where parking can be difficult during the weekends. The old town of Niagara-on-the-Lake is best enjoyed off season or when the day trippers have left because it is then that it shows its charm. St. Davids on the other hand is blissfully peaceful with no town to speak of yet mere minutes away from the many Niagara locations such as Niagara Falls, the Butterfly Conservatory, the Botanical Gardens and the old town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Some twenty wineries are within a short drive. In fact Ravine Vineyards with its Michelin starred chef is but an 8 minute walk from The Woodbourne.
The History of The Woodbourne Inn
The Woodbourne Inn is an 1839 historically designated treasure. While at a bloggers weekend at Marynissen Estate Winery in 2014 I was lodged in a bed and breakfast nearby. The owner of the B&B asked me to drop by at The Woodbourne as he was just about finished with his renovations and knowing I reviewed hotels wanted to speak with me. Speak I did and had a tour of the almost fully renovated property. It quite blew me away with its top end finishes. So three visits later to The Woodbourne I end up reviewing it in November 2022. My previous visit was October 2020 in the height of COVID which was spooky and surreal. Imagine 40 people at Niagara Falls and free parking!
The Woodbourne Layout
The living room at The Woodbourne Inn (Photo: Robert K. Stephen)
The Woodbourne is located on a quiet section of Four Mile Creek Road. There is a grand vestibule as you enter. To the left a living room with 4 sofas and two tables with chairs which are used as you wish including a relaxing place to have your second breakfast. To the right a sumptuous library with seating and games if you wish. You may have your breakfast in the library. There is also a dining room off the professional grade kitchen with one table sitting five and two tables sitting two. Off the dining room is the guest pantry. There are rooms on the main floor and up the stairs with 8 rooms in total. There is also outdoor seating in the garden with two rare Osage trees and a Pa Pa tree.
The Rooms
You might wish to describe the 8 rooms as “Georgian”. There are 5 rooms with king size beds, two with queens and one with twin beds. Big soaker tubs, plush towels, top quality linens and towels make you feel you are living the life of a prosperous country squire! There are no televisions. Fall and winter rates range from $250-$350 with a discount available for multiple nights.
Feeling at Home
You get the feeling at most hotels you are a “guest” in a rented room and that is what you get…a room. Some like that sense of anonymity. At The Woodbourne I had the feeling I was at home. One night I was reading and forgot I was in an inn but rather at home. Perhaps a delightful hallucination.
The Double Breakfast
With a double breakfast at The Woodbourne Inn quite frankly who needs lunch. Upon check in you will be asked what time you want for the first and second breakfast. The first breakfast is delivered outside your door and consists of your choice of coffee, organic juice and 8 organic looseleaf teas from master tea blender Genuine Tea. There is also a home baked pastry. For me the pastry day one was a sausage roll and day two an almond paste scone. The tea was in a brew pot and I loved the Sakura Rose tea. After two huge cups I was just about flying down to the second breakfast. By the way Jenn the pink haired chef at The Woodbourne has a background as a pastry chef and it certainly shows. The day one second breakfast was almond roasted French Toast topped with lavender preserved tangerines with papa cream from very rare Pa Pa trees growing on the property. Day two second breakfast was Eggs Benedict with locally made prosciutto served over fresh baked potato rolls and yet more of that delicious Sakura Rose tea. It is so good I am ordering some from Genuine Tea. You have your choice of where you want to have your second breakfast. You can have in the dining room, the living room or in the library. There is one table in the library, two in the dining room and off the kitchen a table for five and two tables of two. Should the huge amount of tea and juice kick in there is a powder room off the living room.
The Guest Pantry
Off the kitchen there is the guest pantry. There is a supply of ice buckets, Riedel stemless wine glasses, cutlery, toaster, plates, cutlery, coffee maker, microwave and everything you need should you decide to make it a wine and cheese type of night. Yes I did that with some friends on my last visit when COVID paranoia made restaurant dining a dance with death! And since you have purchased some wine at the many wineries in the hood there is a refrigerator which is also full of chilled bottles of filtered water. Yes The Woodbourne advocates sustainability so you will not encounter any single use containers here. Oh and the pantry has custom packets of Sweetwater trail mix or meringue drops if you are in the mood for sweets.
Where to Eat?
You really can’t go wrong with pizza and one of the 11 beers on tap at The Grist (Photo: Robert K. Stephen)
Dining options are a plenty particularly in nearby Niagara-on-the-Lake such as at Treadwell, The Oban or Kitchen 76 just to name a few.
Dining options are limited in St. Davids. My top choice is a brewery-restaurant The Grist with its signature pizzas and 11 beers on tap. Ravine Vineyards restaurant is known for its Michelin quality food but was closed when I was in St. Davids. The Old Firehall strikes me as a Tony Soprano New Jersey Roadhouse with an eclectic mix of Greek and jazz music although the cuisine is fine it really may not be worth your patronage. The Garage Pizzeria I hear has good take-out pizza. All these eateries are within walking distance so drinking and driving can be out of the equation.
Easy Peasy What to Do
In the library you’ll find cards with hints of what to do in the hood. The cards are “Feeling Artsy?”, “Feeling Thirsty?”, “Feeling Hungry?”, “Feeling Energetic?” and “Feeling Spendy?”.
Wineries
Clay amphora and cement tank at Big Head Winery (Photo: Robert K. Stephen”
Further north of the Woodbourne I recommend Big Head Winery with its clay amphoras and concrete tanks on the leading edge of Niagara wineries. Also of course Ravine Vineyards a short walk. Chateau de Charmes is a very commercial “chateau” that attracts tour buses….enough said! But wineries are all over the place!
RKS Hotel Rating 93/100.
(The Woodbourne Inn, 214 Four Mile Creek Road, St. Davids, Ontario, Telephone 289.296.9631
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