“Travels to a Different Time” :21-28 July 2007: Thessaloniki Greece

The flight from Munich to Thessaloniki was just over two hours in length on Air Berlin. Non descript ham and cheese sandwich on Wonderbread. After so much great Bavarian meats and cheeses who would have thought the Germans could have sunk so low. Arrived in Thessaloniki in 45-degree heat. Although the Porto Palace Hotel is newly renovated from a former shoe factory it really is quite deserted and industrial. We have an executive suite overlooking the hotel entrance and a communication tower. Not realizing the time difference we missed breakfast. I did manage to finagle some Greek yogurt and honey with some croissants.

As Fotini has relatives we went to their seaside town summer residence in Perea a suburb of Thessaloniki which at one point was a quaint fishing village but now it is a suburb. You can get there via a ferry from the port of Thessaloniki but we took a taxi for 17 Euros. There is a boardwalk crammed with seafood restaurants. The beach is mediocre and a shadow of what it was years ago. We had a wonderful lunch with tables right on the sand. Octopus, calamari, gavros (anchovies), sardines, fries and much more.

The Penniless Pensioner: Misaligned, Maligned but Marvellous!

Introduction By Robert K. Stephen

Could it be The Penniless Pensioner is one of the most interesting characters inhabiting the globe today? That will be up to you to decide.

From feedback I have received there is no doubt in my mind he is misaligned, misunderstood and some of you have remarked he is marvellous.

If you have been reading about his exploits on this website there is no doubting The Penniless Pensioner, or PP as we call him, is surrounded with beautiful women, adventure and espionage which are lacking in most of our lives.

As for beautiful women we have seen Lola Frieberg the Tirana Tigress, Celine and of course the dubious Russian Svetlana. PP likes his women far younger than himself. This is no surprise from someone trying to conquer a dream!

I am but a ghost writer yet one who has been at his side in many of his tumultuous moments so I can temper and validate his stories. This will be no fictional and rose-coloured examination of this remarkable man. You will get PP raw and ready. We are going to serialize this autobiography here on this website. Subject to reader response PP has inked an “intent to contract” with Unrealistic Pictures headquartered in North Hero Vermont for a major film on his life. It is a bit early to discuss the film but I can say as a fact that Nicole Kidman has expressed interest in playing Lola Frieberg the Tirana Tigress based on the fact of the unknown friendship between PP and the late Reggie the Egyptian Rescue Dog. Ms. Kidman and Reggie as you know starred in several movies including the autobiography of Reggie.

Before we delve into the story of this remarkable man many of you have asked why “penniless pensioner”. That is complicated indeed. PP has at times been impoverished particularly when his Panamanian bank accounts were frozen but these setbacks were momentary. PP is neither a pensioner nor is he penniless. He earned the nickname Penniless Pensioner due to his short-lived role of a lawyer on the Bernie Madoff legal team. Mr. Madoff rendered many of his pensioner clients penniless so PP’s reputation was besmirched by the tabloids as “The Penniless Pensioner”. I am not sure how that makes any sense but the name has stuck. At this point PP wants to keep his name out of the press. PP has received several death threats from Mr. Madoff’s former clients so he wants to protect his identity until he clears his name by publication of his autobiography.

Readers enjoy the voyage.

Toronto November 1,2022.

“Travels to a Different Time” : 2006 Füssen, Germany: Off to the Castles: Bavarians the Calabrian’s of Germany?

Our room at Hotel Kurkafe is Bavarian kitsch. The breakfasts are adequate with some loose-leaf green tea but not as good as the green loose-leaf tea at the Maratim Hotel in Wurzburg. We packed up after breakfast and saw the Bishop’s Castle a rather fortified looking bunker with simple interiors a break from the sumptuous churches and palaces we have seen so far in Bavaria. This brief delving into simplicity ended with a visit to yet another church Kloster St. Mang. The streets in Füssen are narrow and winding with much charm although somewhat dampened by an excess of tacky souvenir shops. There are many Japanese tourists here dressed in great fear of the sun with long sleeves, scarves and big floppy hats. They are quite a spectacle here in Bavaria.

Schloss Neuschwanstein is the poster child for the Walt Disney castle. One mustn’t miss the Throne Room as spectacular and lavish. Go to the tour books for a complete description. There were simply too many tourists crammed in. Our guide was a peculiar looking young man. Skinny and a bad complexion who was mocked by snot nosed west coast Yankee teenagers in our group. Encountered an arrogant and rude Turkish tour group who acted like the castle was a Turkish conquest. Hohenschwangu was almost as impressive.

Bavaria is impressive with its scenery and architecture very different than most of Germany. They love their beer and heavy food. They are somewhat mocked by other Germans discretely of course. Are they the Calabrian’s of Germany?

We arrived late afternoon at Sheraton Arabella Hotel in Oden Schwaig about ten minutes from Munich’s Josef Strauss Airport. Very spacious rooms that looked more like a room in Cleveland than in Bavaria. Being pooped and marooned in a quiet suburb we ate downstairs. Yet more schnitzel and a farewell Bavarian beer. Andrew had the surf and turf. Off to Thessaloniki tomorrow.

RKS Wine: Tirana Tigress and Penniless Pensioner Back in Toronto

After hoodwinking the Russians in Operation Payback Lola Frieberg aka Tirana Tigress and the Penniless Pensioner wisely decided to head back to PP’s home in Toronto a luxurious penthouse The Lonsdale on Avenue Road with a huge wrap around balcony and a view of the campus of Upper Canada College. If the Russians ever got wind of his sabotage of the Iranian drones rewired so they would return to the Russian and Belarusian batteries from whence they were fired PP would be dead. As it stands President Putin has been so humiliated, he most likely will soon be dead. So far all is clear and for the time being Lola and PP have a two person RCMP security detail discretely protecting them. In a secret ceremony in Ottawa the purple haired Governor General of Canada would soon bestow the Order of Canada on PP for his bravery in the Ukrainian conflict. Lola is 22 years younger than PP!

We decide to celebrate after I pick them up at Toronto Pearson Airport. They come to my little Leaside house where we celebrate. Both Lola and PP are bloated and gassy after ingesting putrid Air Canada food on their flight from Athens. The trick then is to fight gas with gas so I open a Crémant de Bourgogne rosé. It is a Labouré-Gontard.

PP is so sick of the Ukrainian sparkling wine he had in Albania he just about retched when I poured a glass of the Crémant. It had an anemic pink colour which could promise just rip snorting acidity and too little fruit? The bubbles are not fine but they are rip snorting! Some gentle raspberry, strawberry and a bit of field tomato skirting about the edges. On the palate sharp and crisp. I say to my guests knowing the queasiness Air Canada food causes to let lose with a few belches and for a few minutes the wine does battle with the squalid Air Canada pig slop and wins. There is some strawberry and raspberry but the sharp cutting acidity is rather classic brut. Cleans up the palate which is extra important with dry chicken in Campbell Soup tomato sauce and plastic cheese, stale roll, limp salad and the dark chocolate square that never was as the hot dish had been placed on top of the chocolate. And the wine low tier French wine the white being a Colombard long ago used in California jug “Chablis”.

The Crémant is no better or worse than many of the entry level Champagnes on the market but a third the price and as there is “penniless” in PP’s name he warms up to the wine’s price tag.

PP also says we have his new book to celebrate “My Life as the Penniless Pensioner” which will be released here on this site in a serialized basis sometime early in 2023. By the way I will be the ghost writer!

We also celebrate the anticipated birth of their child in March of 2023. Has the Penniless Pensioner finally witnessing stability with the Tirana Tigress? They are cuddling up a storm after a huge round of raucous belches which have cleared the Air Canada induced bloating. PP remarks even Air Albania can prepare better food than Air Canada!

(Brut Rosé Labouré-Gontard Crémant de Bourgogne AOP, Mersault, France, $21.95, 750 mL, 12%, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 460816, RKS Wine Rating 88/100).

RKS Wine: Not a Corporate Lawyer, Accountant, Neurosurgeon, Corporate Executive, Overpaid Professional Athlete or Cardiologist? Welcome to Delicious Brutality!

If you are not a “hot shot” it is certainly possible to discover a quality wine at a proletarian price. I mean my friend the Penniless Pensioner would guzzle Chateau Latour with his Boulud Burger in Manhattan and think nothing of paying $1500 as “chump change” for a bottle of Bordeaux First Growth. With a reversal of fortunes, as temporary as it was, he needed my advice to downsize his palate. And when the cash started rolling in he was hooked on looking for a bargain. A few bottles were poured down the crapper but he was a quick study and with my expert guidance he triumphed finding quality wines not cheap n cheerful. A bit snarkily he said the sewer rats drinking his poured toilet wine were like so many of his “esteemed” corporate colleagues.

In fact PP suggested I try a Bastide Miraflores from Côtes Du Roussillon in France home of once simplistic and hearty wines but in the last twenty years has surged in quality without a corresponding hike in purchase price. In fact this one is $19.95. It is a blend of Syrah and Grenache.

As far as aromatics go there is no namby pamby about the wine.  Very solid wine. Gritty and firm raspberry and strawberry with blackberry and the tiniest bit of clove. As the wine rises from the glass into the mouth it is firm with grainy streetfighter tannins standing firm against the Chateau Latour boys flim flaming about elegance and sensuality. More Broad Street Bully than Wall Street wolf. A bit chewy with black plum, ripe cherry and some pepper creating a long zippy finish and by zippy I do not mean acidity but rather liveliness.

Some assertive food for the wine please such as hot grilled sausage or filet of mackerel or sardines cooked in tomato sauce, with capers, olives, anchovies and jalapeno peppers. It would sip well with the film “Double Indemnity”.

This might cruise well into 2027. While it may be brutal this delicious wine can be enjoyed as a sipping wine for those with hair on their chest!

(Bastide Miraflores Syrah & Vieilles Vignes de Grenache, AOP Côtes Du Roussillon 2019, France, $19.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 320499, 14.5%, RKS Wine Rating 93/100).

63rd THESSALONIKI INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL: Three Canadian Indigenous Films Featured

3-13/11/2022

Indigenous Cinema

Τhe Festival’s grand tribute breaks the rules

From Canada’s Inuit and the Latin American tribes all the way to the Australian Aboriginals and New Zealand’s Māori people, the 63rd Thessaloniki International Film Festival sheds light onto cultures, ways of life, and worldviews that have been ostracized from the official frame of our definition of the world, through a large-scale tribute to indigenous cinema.

TIFF is one of the first film festivals to host a grand tribute to indigenous cinema, featuring 17 fiction films. Either shot by indigenous directors or placing the lives of the indigenous people on the spotlight, the tribute’s 13 full-length and 4 short films stand up against the stereotypical depiction of the colonial glance and the “exoticism” of the Western gaze. Moreover, great value lies in the fact that many of the films were shot in languages and dialects driven to the boundary of extinction.

The visibility and the outwardness of indigenous cinema pave the way for an invaluable cultural re-appropriation, through which indigenous people reshape their own representation, claiming the right to be the ones to define the images that form their identity. The reach of TIFF’s tribute extends way beyond cinema and art, going as far as the unseen aspects, the origins and the rich gamut of life and our world, which are constantly under threat and attack.

Kent Mackenzie’s The Exiles (USA, 1961) revolves around a group of young indigenous Americans, living in LA’s Bunker Hill. Yvonne, a pregnant Apache woman, and Homer, her Hualapai husband, share their tiny flat with Tony, a gifted Mexican, and four native women. At night, when men go out on a drinking, gambling and flirting spree, Yvonne goes to the movies all by herself or roams in the streets, oozing a repressed yearning. The film’s documentary-like black and white frames capture fragments of the life in the metropolis, depicting snapshots from a dislocated generation, torn between its origins and the bleak everyday life of the contemporary urban landscape.

Barry Barclay’s Ngāti (New Zealand, 1987) is the first full-length fiction film to be directed and written by a Māori filmmaker. The movie portrays the post-colonial New Zealand of the 40s, where the harmonious coexistence between the white and the indigenous population is still a distant illusion. A young Australian doctor arrives in a coastal village to seek for his roots. As the locals warmly welcome him, he becomes impressed by the way they stick together, as the village’s factory is about to shut down, threatening to plunge the entire region into decay. Initially seeing himself as a mentor, he quickly realizes that he is the one to learn from the natives’ traditions, way of thinking and sense of community. This low-key and gripping story of a man who is in search of his identity stands as a landmark in the history of indigenous cinema.

Visual and multimedia artist, photographer and director Tracey Moffatt is the most influential and multifaceted voice in the Aboriginal art world, whose works and exhibitions have been showcased in institutions such as Tate and MOCA. In BeDevil (Australia, 1993), three stories unfold on the two-fold axis of the otherworldly and the Australian tradition. Rick, an Aboriginal boy living near a swamp, is haunted by the image of an American soldier who drowned in quicksand. Ruby and her family live in a house next to long-abandoned railway lines, where ghostly apparitions are to be seen all the time. A landlord is having trouble evicting the tenants of an old warehouse – a couple that has been dead for years. Reality, colonial past, historical traumas, legends and folklore tales are interweaved in a mystical and hallucinatory movie.

Seven Songs of the Tundra (Finland, 2000) by Anastasia Lapsui and Markku Lehmuskallio takes place amidst the infinite white tundra, where a small religious cult sacrifices a reindeer. A ceremonial song accompanies the sacrifice, triggering a narrative divided in seven chapters, which re-enacts a pivotal point in the Nenets natives’ history. Deprived of their independence and prosperity, the nomadic reindeer breeders were ostracized from their homeland and asked to abandon not only their language and traditions, but also their children that were forced to enrol to boarding schools. Bordering in the threshold between documentary and fiction, the first movie ever to be shot in the Nenets language is a touching drama that explores the deep wounds inflicted by the loss of identity and the struggle for survival. 

Atanarjuat: The Fast Runner (Canada, 2001) by Zacharias Kunuk is the first full-length fiction film to be directed and written by an Inuit filmmaker. In addition, it is the first ever film to be shot in the Inuktitut language. The plot is set in the North-eastern Arctic, long before the region’s first contact with the Europeans, drawing inspiration from a traditional Inuit’s folk tale. Shot in the tiny island of Igloolik over a period of six months, Atanarjuat was one of the first films to be made entirely on HD video. Making use of natural light for the most part, Kunuk and his cinematographer, Norman Cohn, capture images, colour hues and tonalities that introduce to us a new and unexplored world. The movie snatched the Camera d’Or award for best debut film in the Cannes Film Festival, also bearing the title of “the greatest Canadian film of all times”, as voted in a poll conducted by Toronto International Film Festival.

Birdwatchers (Brazil-Italy, 2008) by Marco Bechis takes us to Brazil’s Mato Grosso do Sul, where landowners live in wealth, spending time with the birdwatching tourists who flood the area. In the meanwhile, at a hand’s distance, the natives’ turmoil is on the rise. Exiled in reservation camps, with no other prospect than to work as modern-day slaves in the sugar cane plantations, many natives are driven to suicide. One such incident ignites the spark of the rebellion, when a group of Guarani-Kaiowá natives camps right outside a mansion, claiming what is rightfully theirs. However, and apart from the animosity and the hatred, the two opposed sides are intrigued by the “otherness” that stands on the other side of the fence. This feeling of curiosity will trigger a profound bond between a young Shaman apprentice and the daughter of a landowner. 

Warwick Thornton’s Samson & Delilah (Australia, 2009) showcases a sensitive and unconventional love story between two teenager Aboriginals, in the desert of Australia’s inner land, who embark on a survival journey full of hardships. Their tacit but eloquent in meanings odyssey reflects the fragile nature of youth, striving to survive in an environment governed by violent marginalization, lack of prospect and discriminations. Through scarce dialogues, the resourceful use of expressive means and the spot-on guidance of the amateur cast, the director weaves an unrefined and rough love story that is at once humane and tender.

Heart of Time (Mexico, 2009) by Alberto Cortés permeates the uncharted territory of Chiapas state, in Mexico, in the core of the Zapatistas’ struggle for autonomy. Sonia is about to get married, the families of the couple-to-be have settled all the details, the dowry -in the form of a cow- has been agreed upon. However, Sonia is in love with someone else, a fighter of the guerrilla army. EZLN is now bound to object to the wedding; the entire community is seeking ways to resolve the matter, asking for its voice to be heard, with the hope that love will overcome repression. 

Shot entirely in Samoa’s tiny island of Upolu and filmed in the local language, The Orator (Samoa-New Zealand, 2011) by Tusi Tamasese builds a heart-wrenching drama that speaks of courage, forgiveness and love. Our main hero, Saili, lives a simple and humble life with his beloved wife and their daughter, in a secluded traditional village. Forced by the circumstances to protect his land and family, Saili must overcome his fears and find the courage to defend the people he loves.

The Quispe Girls by Sebastián Sepúlveda take us to the dry and arid Atacama Plateau, in Chile. Isolated from the rest of the world, sisters Justa, Lucía and Luciana are devoted to their goat herd. Nevertheless, they are tormented by loneliness, feeling obliged to repress their femininity in order to survive. The news that dictator Pinochet has prohibited herding in the area becomes the turning point in their silent struggle to preserve their way of life. The three sisters collapse in the face of this imminent threat, and all alternatives seem equally gloomy. The landscape’s infinity, as well as the emotional detachment of the dialogues, enhance the matter-of-fact ambiance of a directorial debut that draws inspiration from real events.

In the ice-cold Patagonia desert, living conditions are rough, as portrayed in Gerónima, a landmark film in Latinamerican cinema. The titular female hero is unable to offer safety to her four little children, but at least she manages to make ends meet, taking life as it comes and facing hardships with perseverance. When a state health official decides to intervene so as to “improve” the family’s quality of life, he fully implements the racist policies of the 70s – during the dictatorship and throughout the “Dirty War.” The entire family (of Mapuche origins) is uprooted and transferred to a public hospital. In this new environment, Gerónima feels unwanted and struggles to avoid a breakdown. The original recording of Gerónima’s clinical diagnosis is heard as a background narrative, firmly documenting the atrocious historical events that inspired the script.

Tanna (Australia, 2015) takes us to a tiny little island of Vanuatu, where different ways of life are caught up in conflict: Some residents have converted to the Christian religion, while others remain faithful to ancestral traditions. As her adulthood initiation ceremony is closing in, a young girl decides to run off with the grandson of a neighboring tribe’s chief. Aware that endogamy is frowned upon by tradition, as inter-tribal marriages help to ensure peace, the two young lovers are trying to conceal their relationship from everyone. Based on true events that took place in the 1980s, and entirely shot in the Nauvhal language, Tanna was a Best Foreign-Language Film Oscar nominee.

Sami Blood (Sweden-Denmark-Norway, 2016) by Amanda Kernell is a heartfelt tribute to those left behind, but also to those who chose to flee from a community living on the brink of the world. At once, it is an alternative-personal view on the colonial past of a “civilized” country, as seen through the eyes of a teenage girl. Elle-Marja, from the reindeer-breeding Sami indigenous tribe, is a 14-year-old boarding school student. Racism was formally grounded in the 30s, and Elle is submitted to bio tests that “measure” when and if a native is entitled to integrate to an all-whites society. Elle is dreaming of a different life, but to make her dreams come true she must become someone else and break off all ties with her family and culture.

Short films:

In the acclaimed The Ballad of Crowfoot (Canada, 1968) by Willie Dunn, a dynamic editing juxtaposes archival photos with Dunn’s ballad. This heart-wrenching and painful mix of music and image unfolds the story of both Canada’s indigenous people and Crowfoot, the legendary chief of the Blackfeet tribe. 

In When All the Leaves Are Gone (Canada, 2010) by Alanis Obomsawin, the main protagonist is the only native student in an all-whites school, in the 40s. The obvious animosity against the 8-year-old girl will escalate to open abuse following the reading of an excerpt in class that describes all indigenous people as savages and barbarians. All alone in her ordeal, she finds comfort and strength in the sheltered world of her magical dreams. Inspired by events experienced in real life by the director and screenwriter of the film, When All the Leaves Are Gone intertwines autobiographical elements, fiction and local legends to weave a moving story about resilience and the redeeming power of imagination.

Snow in Paradise (Νew Zealand, 2011) by Justine Simei-Barton and Nikki Si’ulera takes place in the idyllic and colourful Aitutaki of the Cook Islands, where two young siblings spend their days catching fish, opening up coconuts and peeling fruit for their grandmother. Life on this earthly heaven is serene, but not for long. From 1966 to 1996, 188 nuclear tests were carried out in the South Pacific atoll of Mururoa. No-one took the trouble of warning the neighbouring islands’ population and any talk on the horrendous repercussions has been hushed ever since.

In Blackbird (Australia, 2015) by Amie Batalibasi, taking place in the end of the 19th century, two siblings are forced to move to Australia and work as modern-day slaves in a sugar plantation, after being displaced from their homeland, the Solomon Islands. Perching between the memories from home and the unbearable reality of the uprooting, the camera juxtaposes images from lush landscapes and the monotony of the fields and everyday labour. Shedding light onto one of the darkest and most silenced pages of Australian history, the country’s “sugar slaves”, this lyric short film stands as a declaration of determination and desire to survive.

“Travels to a Different Time”: 2006: Füssen: Germany: A Bizarre Detour

Our trip from Wurzburg to Füssen caused us to encounter a bizarre but not unpleasant detour. Enjoyed the buffet breakfast at the Maratim Hotel in Wurzburg although the top of my mouth is a bit raw. Could it be from all these cold cuts the Bavarians love. Too much nitrate? So more cold cuts, sausages, cheese and fresh dark bread for breakfast. I think I may have eaten a blood sausage! The loose-leaf green tea was a dream come true! We headed off to the Residenz in Wurzburg. I can only compare it to Versailles with row after row of opulently decorated rooms. The King’s room, the Queen’s room, the servant’s rooms, the private chapel and so on. The gardens were most impressive. We set the GPS to Füssen and off we went. It would seem the GPS did not recognize the umlaut end we ended up at a farmhouse in the country which the GPS said we had arrived at our destination of Füssen which clearly was not the case! The farmer’s family welcomed the lost tourists and we had coffee and cake. The farmer’s mother proudly showed us pictures of her children and grandchildren. We also saw a calf being born in the barn. Well a tekkie across the way reset the GPS and off we went through rolling countryside arriving at the right Füssen just as the sun was setting. We checked into the Hotel Kurkafe.

RKS Wine: Listening to Customers: Canada Pricing Itself Out?

A couple of months ago at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario I encountered two gentleman shopping for a backyard wedding reception. They asked me what might go with the salmon which was one of the foods for the backyard wedding barbeque. Earlier in the year I had received some samples from a BC winery which included a couple of Pinot Noirs. I suggested one of those Pinot Noirs which I saw on the LCBO shelves for $33 as after all it was a wedding. This caused one of the gentlemen to start dissing Canadian wines because of their high cost. He was a staunch advocate of Chilean red wines due to their attractive pricing and high quality. He took the higher prices for Canadian wine somewhat like a personal insult. British Columbia produces a slew of high quality red and white wines but you would be hard pressed at the LCBO to find any BC red wines in the $20 and under category. In the October 22 LCBO Vintages release catalogue 4 of the 5 Chilean wines are under $20 yet only 1 of the 7 Ontario wines are in the $20 and under category. None of the 16 California wines are under $20. Sure perhaps there are many reasons, such as cost of land and labour accompanied by high taxes. Does the customer care? Or do the majority of customers want quality at a reasonable price? If they do Chile will come out a winner and Canada a loser. Support local sounds attractive to a point but does it trump the cash register?

Chilean red wine is nothing to sneeze at as generally speaking it offers affordable quality. It doesn’t have to prove anything to me but since we are talking about Chilean wine let’s try a Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva 2020 Carmenère from the Maipo Valley at $18.75.

The aromas signal a lush wine similar to a well-made Merlot from California. Notes of blueberry, black cherry, blackberry and loganberry jam. On the palate there is no doubt about a rich and plush wine that still maintains its definition as a solid as opposed to a flabby wine. In fact call it muscular but not cloistered and tight fisted with its fruit. The blueberry and blackberry is sharp edged keeping the wine in the serious category. The tannins are mild and the finish long and lingering with a bit of pepper. If you are a fan of full-bodied wines this is right and ready now. It will improve over a few years and should be consumed before 2026.

(Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Carmenére 2020, D.O. Vale del Maipo, Chile, Viña Tarapacá, Isla de Maipo, Chile, $18.75, 750 mL,13.5%, RKS Wine Rating 94/100)

“Travels to a Different Time” : 17June2007: Discovering Passau Germany

Nothing like a good sleep to give a fresher perspective on life. Up at 07:30 feeling more like a human being. Jet lag is the bane of travellers. A bit slow but not half dead. Had showers all round and that felt so good! Breakfast in the hotel in a cute and comfortable country dining room. Full of low talkers. American style buffet with scrambled eggs and cold cuts galore, cheese, yogurt and even green tea. A delicious repast. Rearranged the car from its claustrophobic parking space so exiting tomorrow on our trip to Wurzburg would be stress reduced. After that arrangement met Andrew and Fotini in the lobby and off the happy tourists went to discover Passau which is a gorgeous little town full of small winding streets the town being nestled between the Donau and Inns Rivers. Started at St. Stephan Church a very lavish church with its bare pillars representing boring human life with angels and saints near the ceiling acting as intermediaries between God and humans. Many tour groups including elderly polyester suited Americans. Next was the Neue Bischofrsidendz, The New Bishops Residence with a spectacular staircase with engraved marble throughout. The Altes Rathaus was the townhall with meeting rooms with opulent wood and gilded ceilings. Then the Veste Oberhaus a former castle turned museum with the history of Passau once a fiefdom of bishops that saw their power gradually erode. Took a break at Café Burg outside the Oberhaus where I had a Weiss Bier (wheat beer) with notes of cinnamon and cloves. Not a fan. Fotini and Andrew had eiskafe. We crossed the bridge and walked along the Inn River to the Schaiblingstram Tower built in 1841. There were many men drinking beer in the park.