Travelling shoes on at 6:30 a.m. to a new island called Pag. We were to go to Karlovac then by boat to Pag. The bus ride to Karlovac was dicey. Very narrow roads with a bus driver with a passion for passing and a skill of narrowly missing oncoming traffic. Up the mountains we climbed causing Mom to get very nervous but a spectacular view of the coast. The bus driver stopped for a snack break up in the mountains. By 11 we were in Karlovac catching some chow, goulash, before getting on the ferry to Pag. We arrived around 1 in Pag and what a dumpy room. Off to a beautiful pebbly beach and home to the dump at 4:30 with no water. We noticed they were digging up the town and laying down new pipes. Is this why the locals are lining up filling jugs of water at the town fountain? Like the locals we went and bought a jug so we had drinking water. For $2.50 we had a delicious clam and fish dinner and then went to watch people taking an evening stroll on the waterfront. Diary Entry of Margaret Mary Stephen: There are rows of women in black sitting on tiny stools in front of their homes making lace. When we moved in here we wondered why the tub was full of water and none in the tap. No one understood English so the plastic jug we bought came in handy. I met an old man sitting on a bench and I asked him the way to the post office and I was so surprised he spoke English. I asked him about the lack of water and he said Pag only has water one hour a day. He said they have a bathtub but have not had a bath in 5 years. He thought they would finally have running water in two weeks. This is why the streets are dug up.
RKS Wine: A Portuguese Wine from The Wharf
Cais da Ribeira means a wharf by the riverside and that is the name of a Douro Red we are trying. Porto is the main city of the Douro wine region. On the Porto side the Ribeira is on The Douro River and there are restaurants and shops tucked away but there are some grand homes on the river too. And unfortunately there are too many cruise passengers cramming the streets just like Lisbon. Sadly, seeing its transformation over the years leaves no great desire to visit it other than it being a jump off point into the Douro Valley. Really the only reason I will venture into the eye of the cruise ship storm is to visit a friend Alexandre who owns a restaurant called Postigo do Carvão a street up from the river specializing, in my opinion, the best and the freshest simply prepared seafood in Porto. The sardines and sea bass are from heaven and there are shellfish as well but my heart rests with the grilled sardines! And there are meat dishes as well and a well picked selection of Douro Red wines. And if you are hungry an extensive aperitif selection.
To digress a bit I recall dropping in to see him in 2013 for dinner while I was with a journalist writing for The Globe & Mail. I had a Franceschina for lunch unknown to me to be the richest sandwich known to man drenched in slow cooked beer-based gravy. 7 hours later it was a dinner with my journalist colleague with Alexandre laying out a feast for a man with a distended belly. That was rough and I have learnt this type of sandwich must be treated with respect!
Getting back to the Cais da Ribeira 2019. The bulk of the blend is Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional both indigenous Portuguese grapes. In colour black cherry with a purplish tinge. As for aroma blackberry, black cherry, blueberry with a twist of licorice. On the palate it is a wine with subtle and restrained power with moderate tannins. It is full of dark fruits but the wine has an immature character to it. Yes it should sit in the bottle until 2024 and its fruit may stick out its head like a turtle’s from its shell. If I was sitting in Postigo now this wine would suit Cabrito Assada no Forno (grilled baby goat) or Carne de Porco a Alentejana (Fried Pork from the Alentejano with Clams).
Wine drinker profile: A person who likes a robust red wine in its younger years willing to get to know what an excellent wine is in its infancy or for a collector willing to cellar 3-5 years and try periodically to see how it matures. Good for the wine with food type.
(Cais da Ribeira Reserva 2019, DOC Douro Reserva, Barão, Villa Nova de Gaia, Portugal, $13.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 523639, 750 mL, 13.5%, Robert K. Stephen a Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 89/100).
Postigo do Carvão, R. da Fonte Taurina 24 (postigodocarvao.com)
“Travels to a Different Time” : July 13, 1971: Murter, Yugoslavia: No Thanks to Croatian Hard Rock and the Miserable Flies
It is nice to know I am not the only hungry one in this travelling troupe. Mom woke me up saying I should get up as she was hungry! Yet more ham, cheese and rolls with Fructal cherry nectar. We were going on a long walk to what is supposed to be a good beach. It looks like in a couple of weeks we will be headed to Germany so beach time is becoming even more special for us. I used to hate salt water but it didn’t take me long to love it. I suppose we are beach bums. Mom was saying she couldn’t walk much longer so I stuck out my thumb and a Citroen stopped and a man gave us a lift to a crowded beach. He said he could drive us back home at 4. Nice guy. Beautiful warm and crystal-clear water and a sandy beach. He drove us back as promised and we all went out for a drink after. We had an early dinner and went to the theatre for a Vice Vikov concert but as it was hard rock Mom said she’d get a headache if she listened to his music so we headed home. Dinner for two $2.00.
July 14, 1971: Murter Yugoslavia
Woken up by a swarm of flies the monstrous annoying brutes. The buzzing is driving me nuts! Average cost of meal for two on Murter $2.60. People are the nicest in Yugoslavia. Accommodation is a real dump and swarming with flies.
Golf and Your Mental Game: You Could Be Dead!
OK we all have miserable moments or continual misery on the golf course if you haven’t followed my steps to avoid discombobulation on a bad day. Please folks keep some perspective here. You are on a golf course. You have escaped harsh realities of life and should be enjoying yourself. But you might be tearing yourself apart about how much of an idiot you have been duffing shot after shot or that eagle putt of three feet you missed on the 12th where a birdie would have been a write to home event.
Take a step back and think about the friends you have lost lately to a list of terrible diseases. They are sick and dead but here you are on the golf course worrying about possibly missing an eagle putt. For God’s sake put your misery in perspective. Enjoy the day as who knows what tomorrow brings?
“Travels to a Different Time” : July 12, 1971: Hvar, Vira, Split and Murter in Yugoslavia: Off to the Island of the Deaf, Near Puke Near the Sewage Line, So Much for Honest Communists and Itinerary Flexibility
Up at the crack of dawn to catch a 7:20 boat to Split. We went to the tourist office to pay the bill but no one was there and we missed the boat and 10 minutes after that someone opened the tourist office. We had two alternatives one of which was wait until the next boat at 4 or take the bus to Vira and take a connecting ferry to Split. We took the bus to Vira which was a 20-minute ride in a little Mercedes passenger van which was as hot as an oven. We got there just in time as the boat was just arriving. After getting ready to board Mom realized her CP Air bag was on the bus. I whipped like crazy to the bus but the bag was not there. So much for the honest Communist. Meanwhile a sailor was frantically waving to me to get on the boat. My time for a tantrum. When we arrived at Split we had a bit of time to kill for our boat trip to the island of Murter. But we decided it would be quicker to take the bus there. On the way to the bus poor Mom almost puked as there was some work being done on the sewer line and the smell was ripe times two! The bus ride was stinking hot and we arrived in a sweat. We dragged our sweaty bodies to the tourist office and lucked out with a beautiful room in a pension. Why are so many people communicating in sign language here? As far as I can figure out there seems to be a very large camp for the deaf in Murter. Dinner for two $2.50.
Diary entry of Margaret Mary Stephen: We saw people eating small platters of fish. Anchovies I think. They were delicious but salty yet sweet. We ate the whole fish head and all. We then had stuffed green peppers and a glass for me of the excellent white wine. We had a great pastry after and my stomach is growing with such good pastries in Yugoslavia. There is a big deaf colony here so is that why it is called Murter?
“Travels to a Different Time” : July 2, 1971: Hvar: Yugoslavia: The 164 Steps and Two Letters from Fritz!
We disembarked with the gypsies at 4 in the afternoon and went to the tourist office to find a room. We were lucky to find a spotless room with a private bathroom and a balcony overlooking the Dalmatian Coast! One problem and that is we have to climb 164 steps to get to our pension. We went down the 164 steps to a restaurant where I had a greasy soup and Mom a glass of wine. We then went to the post office and picked up some mail. A letter from Barbara and two letters from Fritz! We then checked out a couple of restaurants but they were touristy and expensive. We eventually found a restaurant and Mom had calf’s liver and I had shish kebab. We went home up the 164 steps and Mom must have read Frtiz’s letters at least five times.
New Political Party to Be Launched in Canada: “Can’t Stand It Anymore United”
February 3,2027: Ottawa: Alexa Terpene announced today in Ottawa the launch of a new political party in Canada. The party will be called “Can’t Stand it Anymore United”.
The new party is the creation of a formal political party from a strong non-party movement “I Can’t Stand it Anymore”.
Terpene issued a brief statement today,” We are now forging ahead with a new political party. What started as an informal movement will be converted into a formal political party. Canada is now 7 years into a never-ending pandemic. 7 years of intermittent lockdowns. Incessant fixation with vaccines and the suspension of civil liberties. Prime Minister Smith has prorogued Parliament for 4 years claiming full democracy and health measures can’t co-exist so offering him a reason to prorogue Parliament under the War Measures Act. We do not accept his argument fighting a weak virus amounts to a war. Why did the Supreme Court of Canada judges disappear in a plane crash? Why have there been no challenges to the inappropriate invoking of the War Measures Act. This is no “Just Watch Me “moment. There is absolutely no need for the operation of COVID re-education camps. We need an immediate reversion to a democracy.”
A spokesperson for the Prime Minister’s Office retorted, “Parliament was prorogued as a necessary step to combat COVID and its working! Now is not the time for the establishment of a new political party that thrives on misinformation. We are on the edge of defeating the virus and have been doing so for the past 5 years.”
Terpene has instructed party officials to get “Can’t Sand it Anymore United” registered as a political party” so a leadership convention can be called.
“Travels to a Different Time” : June 27/28, 1971: Korcula: Laying Low with Ankle Problems: No Luck Octopus Fishing; Gypsies and Caught with Her Pants Down! Fritz on the Radar!
June 27, 1971: Korcula, Yugoslavia: Up at 8 this morning and off to the beach. Went spearfishing and saw a huge fish out of range. We stayed on the beach until two and then headed back to our pension. Mom twisted her ankle on the way and somehow broke my watch. Not a good day for Mom! She had a hard time making it back and I had to help her. After a lunch of ham, bread and cheese I left Mom behind and went down to the beach. No luck with spearfishing. When I returned I was told that the doctor paid a visit and she should keep her ankle on ice and if her ankle was not healed or much better in a couple of days to go to the hospital. We ate dinner with our hosts in the dining room and afterwards Mom lay on the couch and we played cards, returned to the room and read. Expenses for the day $6.28.
June 28, 1971: Korcula, Yugoslavia: Mom’s ankle seems much better. I went into town and picked up breakfast of Fructal orange juice and raisin buns. I then played cards with the invalid and went down to the beach. We managed to make it to a nearby restaurant for a first-class fish dinner. We had dessert in a pastry shop and came home to play cards. Mom is slow but I think tomorrow she will be ready for longer trips. Margaret Mary Stephen Diary Entry: I never saw so many scrawny pregnant cats. They eat the rind off the cheese and the meat wrapper and all. The island is beautiful-the old town is undergoing restoration. Expenses for the day $15.61
June 30, 1971: Korcula, Yugoslavia: After breakfast we walked to a town called Vela Luka. We returned around noon and I went to the beach to try my new octopus lure that the fisherman use. No success. I then went for a swim in the overcast weather and was shivering when Mom brought over some lunch. After lunch I rented a small boat and again tried octopus fishing. No luck again. We did see some traditional Croatian dancing at a cinema after dinner. Not that I like dance but they put on a beautiful show. We had fun recognizing the cousin and brother of our friend at the travel agency. Expenses for the day $8.47.
July 2, 1971: Korcula and Hvar, Yugoslavia: We were out the door at 10:30 to catch our ship to the island of Hvar but Mom forgot her toothbrush and toothpaste so I rushed back to get it in the bathroom and a girl was peeing. She pulled up her pants and shouted,” Momento, Momento!” An embarrassing moment for both of us. We were on the boat at 1 and went deck class which on this ship was steerage class. There was a big crowd of gypsies on board all of whom were poorly dressed. We arrived at Hvar at 3:30.
June 30, 1971, Korcula, Yugoslavia: Margaret Mary Stephen letter to daughter Barbara: Barbara, as far as I know we will be returning to New York from Frankfurt. We will be seeing Fritz either in Munich or West Berlin. We are waiting to hear from Heidi whether she will be in West Berlin in the middle of August. Korcula is beautiful and it is very old and quaint. We had wanted to go to a fishing village today but it is too windy and cold. The beach is rocky here and I miss the sand. I am very tanned but Robert not so much as he is in the water a good deal of the time. He bought a smaller speargun than last year so it is not so awkward to carry around. He also has an octopus fishing lure a dreadful looking thing. Unlike Greece there are only a few hippies here. There are many items on restaurant menus that aren’t available. The food at the pension we are staying at is really good. The people here are very surly. They must think we are Americans. I would not want to live behind the Iron Curtain. There is no variety in the stores and very little in the food stores. The fruits and veggies are mostly poor quality unlike Greece. There is lots of good wine here. Cigarettes are 22 cents a pack. Robert writes in his diary most every day. I am sure if you read it you will get a kick. Today we will take an empty wine bottle and go to a wine shop where they fill it up. The locals bring large jugs to be filled up. There is no milk here except sterilized milk in cartons. Robert does not even like to try it. Like Greece the bread is very rough.
Photo: WorthPoint
RKS WINES: Canadian Wine Quarantine: Social Distancing and The Berlin Wall!
If I was to say to my Ontario readers Mayhem Wines in British Columbia’s Okanagan produces some jaw dropping quality wines that in my opinion rank it amongst the top wineries in the world 99.9% would say I was infected with some Omicrap virus and hallucinating.
Why is this?
- The Liquor Control Board of Ontario prefers the profitability of California wines over all other wines even Ontario wineries. If Rodney Dangerfield was still with us he would say ex-Ontario wineries get no respect!
- Ontario wine drinkers are stuck in their comfort zone to the extent the wines of British Columbia are received with as much fanfare as the wines of Uruguay. Herd immunity is relaced with Herd Frenzy where inferior wines such as Argentinian Fuzion rocket to success.
- Even if there was a desire on the part of consumers to drink more British Columbian wine there is almost none of it on the shelves
- Provincial liquor monopolies are greedy for every cent of tax revenue and direct winery sales from outside of a province to another are to be killed despite the fact the federal Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act was amended in 2019 to remove federal prohibitions about importing wine to provinces but leaving it to the provinces as to what importation rules would be is like leaving Little Red Riding Hood to have the Big Bad Wolf as a babysitter. No wonder the SAQ last year sent a threatening message to interprovincial exporters they were breaking the law of Quebec and would be pursued by the law for importing into Quebec except for imports through SAQ or their own intentionally cumbersome private ordering system. No tax loss there!
- Allegedly the wineries outside of Ontario don’t have the volume to meet demand
The answer is either reform the Liquor Control Board of Ontario or privatize liquor distribution. If communism and the Berlin Wall collapsed in Europe certainly the Liquor Control Board of Ontario can collapse too. Until that day, given that provinces have been flogging social distancing for COVID, they have been social distancing out of province wineries from Ontario wine drinkers for years.
Geez, speaking of Ontario it really does not have the range of quality that the Okanagan has for red wines. So there is a Mayhem Cabernet Merlot to try. Mention that blend from an Ontario winery I might be squirming in my seat with less than anticipation.
I noted the wine is slightly cloudy which can indicate unfiltered wine or spoiled wine and in this case it is unfiltered. On the nose this blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc is dominated by a lush and juicy Merlot which is held in check by a leaner Cabernet Franc. Juicy red cherry rules the aromas like a tyrant (or provincial health officer) keeping the teeming masses of blackberry, cranberry, 72% cacao and strawberry in a tight and disciplined formation. On the palate the tannins hit the roof of the mouth first and then spread to the rest of the mouth. But they are gentle. Although there is juiciness of red fruit there is enough drag down of that by blueberry, raspberry and strawberry jam to make this a classy and elegant wine.
Ajay Chavan as Mayhem’s winemaker has another winner under his belt. What a match for confit of duck with cherry chutney. This will improve in the bottle but consume before 2026.
I recall that 2019 was not a great growing season in the Okanagan but whatever handicap that presented has been well managed by Chavan.
The grapes are from Mayhem’s vineyards on Anarchist Mountain and the Tebutt Vineyard in Naramata. Both the Merlot and Cabernet Franc were fermented in stainless steel but were aged in French oak (40% new and 60% seasoned) for 11 months.
233 cases produced. For $21.74 folks you are getting a steal.
(Mayhem 2019 Cabernet Merlot BC VQA, Mayhem Wines (produced under the license of Meyer Family Vineyards), Okanagan Falls, British Columbia, $21.74, 750 mL, 14.1%, Robert K. Stephen A Little Birdie Told Me So Rating 94/100).
“Travels to a Different Time” : June 24, 1971: Korcula, Yugoslavia: Fantastic Meal for Two for $2.60 and A Cigarette Tantrum
Up at 8 a.m. for a shower and caught a bus to the town of Lumbarda which was supposed to have a fantastic beach. Bought rolls, ham and cheese for breakfast to have on the beach. The bus was jam packed with no tourists in sight! Up in the hills the roads are so narrow that cars approaching the bus must reverse and find a place where the bus can pass. This happened several times on our trip. Just about every passenger was heading to the beach and had bundles of food. Just like us. The beach by the bus was not great but wandering around we found a beautiful sandy beach with 5 people on it. I went spearfishing but did not see any fish. After all that snorkeling breakfast sure was good. We stayed until one and took the bus back. We arrived back to unmade beds. We had a top rate meal for two tonight for $2.60 consisting of two fish each, potatoes, salad and crepes for dessert. We were supposed to go to a nightclub at the Grand Hotel but on the way I said to her if she smoked a cigarette I wouldn’t talk to her for an hour. She turned around and gave me a dirty look and stomped back to the pension steaming mad. The next day she set her hair with baby oil instead hair spray. Subtle revenge?
A Bird's Eye View of Fashion, Food, Travel, Culture, Beverage and Curiosity 