On the surface in the heavily trafficked areas of Thessaloniki one may be left with the impression the younger set survives on coffee and as the sun sets move on to cocktails. As in Toronto so it goes in Thessaloniki where wine and beer is dying and the mighty cocktail lifts its costly head. There is a multitude of food and delicious accompanying smells but when and where do these young bucks have time to eat?
Find the Pyrgos and you’ll find Kafeneio Pyrgos: Photo Robert K. Stephen
The poor buggers may be slipping into anorexia but I have found a wonderful restaurant, very traditional full of over 50-year old’s without a cocktail in sight! A multitude of tables outdoors on a balmy mid-September night with seafood being the name of the game here. While many Greeks enjoy an ouzo with a traditional seafood dinner there are certain rebels about that are drinking wine here at Kafeneio Pyrgos!
The view is of the Pirgos (White Tower). The sea smelts (Gavros) smell of the ocean as if they were caught in the morning. Heaping plates of cuttlefish, octopus, mussels, eggplant dip, Greek Salad, delectable fries and fresh Greek bread. The Thessalonians are big eaters but very measured. 4 hours later when the appetite is beginning to resurge there are pickings left with wine. None of this 90 minute per sitting self important restaurant hegemony you might encounter in New York or Toronto. Stay as long as you want and take your time. As the restaurant has been open since 1924 why hurry?
Kafeneio Pyrgos 3 Tsirogianni Street (opposite the Pyrgos)
“Always attuned to changes in the mood of the market, drug dealers had quickly realized the advantageous commercial consequences of a year of continual stress. When the numbers of the infections increased, so had the need to find drug-induced solace in what seemed like the Valley of the Shadow of Death. When the numbers decreased, what better way to celebrate the possible return to life than with a little of this or a lot of that? Even now, with things calmed down, the stress, it seemed to Brunetti, had not disappeared, nor had the desire to seek the comfort of narcotics.”
Donna Leon: “Give Unto Others”: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2022
“But artists, he had long since concluded, were rather like politicians in their interest in the tasteful appearance of truth rather than the truth itself. “
Donna Leon “Give Unto Others” : Atlantic Monthly Press 2022
Thessaloniki is Greece’s second largest city behind Athens. Despite being an old fogey I certainly pick up a very youthful and hip vibe in Thessaloniki. And that has been constant in the last decade. The cafes and bars are packed and it is a love affair with the cocktail and coffee. I prefer Thessaloniki to Athens. Athens this September had more Americans in it than Greeks! Thessaloniki is more of a Euro insider secret.
My savvy wife booked Daios Luxury Living choosing a Junior Suite with an ocean view. The entrance to the hotel is on a tree lined side street with a Manhattan feel. Check in was, shall we say, indifferent. After 3 flights in 5 days one can become dazed all of which crumbled with an exceptional room and not only a fantastic sea view but a huge wrap around private balcony one side facing the ocean and the other side the side street where the hotel’s entrance is. Why on earth go out for tea or a glass of wine with a huge balcony facing the sea. This for me was luxury. Hundreds of interesting people on the promenade below and stunning views. We did also eat in a couple of nights watching the sunset . Certainly there are times you don’t want to eat out and with this wonderful balcony the omnivore was out searching for a feast.
Note as a real winner there is a mini fridge with beer, Coca-Cola (the neat old bottles), water and juice which is replenished daily. That is a real nice touch very much appreciated by a jet lag pummelled traveller. The room exceeded expectations with a wood accented bathroom stocked with Greek Zealot toiletries. Linen and toiletries are first rate. By objective standards the suite is not huge but its design makes it feel much larger and comfortable.
Side street entrance: Photo Robert K. Stephen
Breakfast was impeccable with everything you could possibly need. A very professional vibe in the dining room. I enjoyed the Norwegian smoked salmon draped over a “Greek bagel” which I call a koolirakia. Want a custom egg dish just ask the staff. The freshly squeezed orange juice was a good way to start the day. Based on past experience “luxury hotels” often make available lose leaf teas. Not the case here. Is it my fault I can’t start the day without two mega cups of various green teas!
Cleaning staff were efficient and meticulous.
Location is superb.
While the hotel represents “nouvel luxe” with an 80’s boutique hotel vibe the room layout and the balcony made this a deluxe experience.
So 5 stars means a lot of dough? Not really in fact you might want to say my savvy wife snagged a great deal. For me paying more for a balcony was a stellar investment.
Be forewarned at 62 degrees Fahrenheit the wine is flabby so try to bring it down to 55 degrees which is what your refrigerated cellar temperature should be. The nose is primarily black fruit with some plum and mocha all sitting on a pool of kirsch. On the palate the tannins are soft but a bit of pepper on the finish. There is cherry and overly ripe strawberries. Definitely drinkable but mundane and boring which unfortunately rather summarizes 90% of the wines on the shelves of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Their buyers are asleep at the wheel boring consumers to death. Is there no daring and chutzpah at the LCBO? Yawn! A falling asleep wine. Jamessuckling.com gives this a 91. Give me a break. Wineflation seems to be the Suckling game. And the Liquor Control Board of Ontario loves it as does the pay to play cadre. Quite frankly are there other wine writers that the LCBO recognizes other than Suckling at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario “media control centre”?
(Château Larroque 2018 AC Bordeaux Supérieur, $15.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 92536, 750 mL, 14%, RKS Wine Rating 84/100).
Château de Marsan 2018 Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux (84)
The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The label says open the bottle an hour prior to serving but I think after you open it up then pour into a decanter/carafe to let it breath. Simply opening up a bottle doesn’t facilitate the flow of air to the wine. If you are searching for a top-quality wine above the “usual” you will not find it in this wine. It is a respectable wine without a wow factor. But again isn’t that the case with 95% of wines you buy?
On the nose immediately one notices a high-test alcohol wine at 14.5%. Is this Australia? Black cherry, blueberry, licorice and red plum. Fine grain tannins with acidity to perfection. The finish is dilute. Again the LCBO obsession with Suckling as they include a Suckling rating of 90. My experience is that there is always a minimum 3-point inflation in a Suckling rating. I give this an 84. There are 7 Bordeaux reds in the LCBO August 13, 2022 Vintages release and 5 are Suckling ratings. Give me a break. Could it possibly be Suckling ratings are inflated so they can be used to sell wine? My God are wine writers pimps! No way! Right?
(Château de Marsan 2018 Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux, Confrier Freres, Gironde, France, $17.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 46245, 750 mL, 14.5 %, RKS Wine Rating 84/100).
Château Haut-Mazières 2019 Bordeaux (86)
A blend of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 % Cabernet Franc which has aged 12 months in oak. On the nose loads of black cherry and blueberry all rather dense and sleepy. On the palate expect a brief clash with muscular tannins but it is only momentary and edifies the structure of the wine. Quite frankly this is a burly if somewhat explosive wine but not a cheap thrill. Put another way a well-made wine that can lift beef and lamb to stellar heights. Yes this is a foodie wine. And cheapest of the three I find it to be the best.
(Château Haut-Maziéres 2019 AC Bordeaux, Caves de Rauzan, France, $14.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 487546, 750 mL, 13.5%, RKS Wine Rating 86/100).
Conclusion
Bordeaux reds usually do far better than the three reviewed here. Those wines are drinkable but certainly not the hidden gens for Bordeaux reds I have tried in the past.
“Red River Road” is about as indie as they come. The entire production was a family one made during a COVID lockdown. Although in most locations the lockdown no longer exists and if you believe President Biden of the United States COVID is over. Watching the Schuyler family struggle through the perceived terrors you might even recognize yourself from earlier COVID days.
In this case COVID is not mentioned instead it is some virus propagated over the internet that leads to violence and collapse of the cognition process. Yes there are plenty of Alzheimer moments in “Red River Road”. So the Schuyler boys access their Mom’s iPad and phone and matters become very wonky and threatening. The virus is spread by the internet think the Schuyler family and they are thinking literally so in their thoughts connecting with the internet could be inviting an infection.
Matters progress and Anna Witter (Jade Schuyler) complains of a series of strange dreams. After the access to the internet incident her husband Stephen (Paul Schuyler) vanishes as well as Wyatt Witter (Quinn Schuyler) and Shaw Witter (Sean Schulyer). There is no one left in the Schulyer family aside from Anna. Has the virus hit decimating the family?
And why is there a forcefield surrounding their house. Who is delivering daily food baskets? Why has a chip been implanted in their necks? Who is behind this control causing recipients of “control calls” to flip out in terror.
Sorry no answers here and the writing is complicated enough to prevent “the easy answer”. No I am not buying the “I was feverish so I missed the entire series of events”. That smile between Anna and Paul as the move concludes is a great movie moment. And that bar code on the green hamper may just send chills up your spine.
The film begs the question of whether COVID was the virus or was it the media and government circus that was the actual virus and internet rantings of a cabal of many? Or was the internet demonized by those in power as a method of preventing news from being spread contrary to the “official line”?
A solid mystery raising a whole host of questions it fails explicitly to address giving you that job. It as if there are no grounds for reality in “Red River Road”.
“River Road” will be released on digital platforms on October 4, 2022. You can catch the trailer here https://vimeo.com/588141957
With all deference surfer documentaries manipulate a tired plot of a determined surfer looking for the perfect wave and slather it with good cinematography. In this case don’t expect a novel plotline but be prepared for the stunning cinematography Rick Rifici has handed us here. In fact watch the huge curling monsters and Rifici will take you on magic carpet ride to the surfing world of Australian surfer Kerby Brown.
The monsters faced by Kirby are numerous and you’ll conclude that it is not only waves that can be a monster but mental unease and uncertainty about the future both of which he muses about through the documentary.
OK so not a soul-searching documentary but a bloody good relaxing documentary chock full of some of the nastiest waves you may have seen. As Kerby opines it is not the size of the waves that is key but rather the thickness in them. Rest assured in the Southern Ocean there are some exceedingly thick looking waves and at times one may wonder is this Kerby Brown a kamikaze or a brazen surfer. Probably a bit of both.
“Facing Monsters” is directed by Bentley Dean and it opened in the United States on September 22. On October 15th it will be available on various VOD outlets.
A nice little detour into Greece for three weeks this month had helped me cleanse the rancour of American politics inflamed by a series of events and personalities and despite a Democratic President being elected the bitterness and hostility continues unabated despite the Trumpster falling from the sky. It was simply too much to endure for someone like me that strictly limits of late any exposure to US news programmes. Instead in Greece it was watching the BBC for “the death of our Canadian queen”. GAG! But at least no orange toad to look at on the telly or for that matter senile Republican rants.
The first documentary film up for review by me was “From the Hood to the Holler” a moniker wanabee Democratic Senator, Charles Booker, coined during his 2020 primary battle with Amy McGrath for the position of Democratic Party candidate to run against Republican senator Mitch McConnell who has a habit of shooting down progressive political agenda as anti-American. Aren’t we getting sick of that line!
Booker was brought up clean but very poor by a single mother who was also assistant pastor of a local church. I mean at one point in the film Booker and his campaign staff hold arms and pray to the Lord. A fundamentalist Democrat?
Best as a non-American to escape the detailed nature of Booker’s campaign in Virginia and look for generalities.
Virginia politics is dirty with drastically reduced polling stations for the primary. Who made that decision?
Booker is a relatively laid-back politician who has an ability to extend his popularity amongst a broad class of Virginians. There is an absence of vitriol emanating from Booker but no lack of passion.
Coming from nowhere and sadly out funded by McGrath he narrowly loses to her managing to cobble together a progressive alliance of voters. Quite remarkable in the Republican state of Virginia. Booker is now running against Republican Rand Paul for a Senate seat in the upcoming general US election.
So you see a decent man coming from the hood hollering in politics. Hillbillies in Virginia holler when they are displeased and Booker hopes to holler for Virginians in the US Senate.
“From the Hood to the Holler” was directed by Pat McGee and runs for 102 minutes. It has won 7 awards on the documentary film circuit and on September 23 it was released on certain digital platforms.
Produced by the tank method. On the nose loads of strawberry, raspberry with BC cherry. On the palate a nice acidic bite but more than a bite it also has fruit with a strong undercurrent, brief as it may be, of Niagara cherries that bring a tiny hit of sweetness before it snaps back into a dry mode with a barely discernible wave of freshly squeezed Orri tangerine juice. This may match a Thanksgiving and Christmas turkey. However as fall is here this would suit stuffed field tomatoes and red peppers as well.
Drink by the end of 2023.
(Konzleman Méthod Cuve Close Sparkling Rosé, VQA Ontario, $19.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 184176, 750 mL,12%, RKS Wine Rating 89/100).
Nomad Sparkling Firefly II 2019 Rosé
From Hinterbrook Estate Winery in Niagara we have this wine which is produced by the tank method and has a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% late harvest Cabernet Sauvignon.
On the nose cherry, watermelon and a touch of banana. On the palate there is some gentle acidity and fizz. So many sparkling wines are so dry and acidic they burn which many wine writers call “palate cleansing”. The addition of the late harvest Cabernet Sauvignon hustles this from a brut to a demi-sec. You’ll pick up a bit of residual sugar here. Notes of apricot, peach and mango. A good sipper as opposed to a rip snorter palate cleanser. Again a great match with turkey and also with a roast ham and mashed potatoes and carrots. Keep it simple.
(Nomad Firefly II Sparkling 2019, VQA Ontario, Hinterbrook Estate Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, $17.95, Liquor Control Board of Ontario # 20377. 750 mL, 12.5%, RKS Wine Rating 88/100).
Trius Brut (NV)
Made by the traditional method, just like Champagne, from Ontario we have a Trius Brut.
Light gold in color with a very slight greenish hue.
A lively and frisky nose. Big updraft of muskmelon, pear, apple and mango. On the palate a cutting sharpness with a tangy boundary of tartness. Loads of wet stone and a tad of grapefruit. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Oysters with this one!
I was 12 in 1971 when I escaped a cloistered suburban setting in Montreal with an adventurous mother on the Auntie Mame level. Riding scooters to the Acropolis of Lindos on Rhodes, taking a fishing boat to the next village chased by leaping dolphins, being invited to parties and weddings by Greek islanders and seeing very closely a world that no longer exists in Greece except perhaps in isolated mountain regions or on a sparsely populated island.
Bravo to the Sweet Home Boutique Hotel in Athens for offering loose leaf tea which made me feel very at home. Super friendly staff at breakfast as if they were welcoming you into their home for breakfast. Photo: Robert K. Stephen
As a young man in those days long ago I was a food eating machine. Growing like a bad weed attending a private boy’s school in Montreal that had you playing sports so as to drive impure thoughts from your head. And I was a hungry and voracious creature burning up with a breakfast desire to fuel myself up with bacon, eggs, milk, waffles, pancakes, cinnamon buns all of course home made! Ooooh a Western Omelette Sandwich Montreal style! And put this poor eating machine in Greece in 1971 facing a nightmare of a lack of a proper breakfast!
Sparkling white wine at Daios Luxury Living Hotel breakfast. You will often encounter sparkling wine at 5 star breakfast buffets in Europe. Photo; Robert K. Stephen
OK then chuckle away and say what a little porker! I was not a porker but a legitimate starving pre-teen. How could Greeks be the founding block of civilization be eating Feta Cheese, olives, rusks and a Greek coffee for breakfast! Sounds Spartan to me! And I did not then eat Feta cheese or drink coffee. In no way the fault of the Greeks but not my fault for requiring a calorie boost.
I survived on Greek bread for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Greek bread is awesome when it was fresh but give it a day and it was a rock. Probably safe to call it “natural”. So, find a good baker and strike early in the morning while the product is super fresh. Buy local fruit and slather bread with Greek jam and honey and hope for the salvation of a Greek dinner with “bizarre” foods like stuffed vegetables, fried octopus and squid, lamb, goat, mezze with tomatoes, cucumber, pickled octopus with a shot of ouzo. Lunch was more bread with some cheese and a huge serving of “karpussi” (watermelon). Thank the Gods on Mount Olympus for an always satisfying Greek Dinner however different it was from Canadian suburban fare!
This photo and the one above are from the buffet breakfast at Athens Inn: Photo Robert K. Stephen
So after a visit or two to Greece in the 1970’s it wasn’t until I was in Greece again in the late 1980’s that the Greek breakfast had evolved to a North American buffet in the hotel framework. Here were eggs, (boiled, omeletized and fried), high fat and decadent Greek yogurt coming in at 12% fat and some pastries!
Many years later back in Greece I reflect on my famine and have no shame on my early teen behaviour! Yet I am not the voracious teen monster who in a good mood you want to refer to as Forest Gump on Adderall. So in September it was off to Greece. Number 8 visit to Greece.
I booked some 5 star rated properties and a couple of lesser starred properties. The hotel breakfasts have undergone a revolution. If they were in 1971 what they are today I would have saved myself from a Biafran nightmare! Slap me in the head but French Toast in a breakfast in Athens with Norwegian maple syrup available for a pour over (with a big Canadian Maple Leaf on it), eggs galore, cheese and so much watermelon.
I could be property specific on 4 hotels/resorts I stayed at but the end of the traditional Greek breakfast imposed on tourists best suited for monastic types seems well deceased. As a North American or a Central European you will not suffer. I love a couple of slabs of Norwegian smoked salmon (wild caught) draped over a Koolorakia in Thessaloniki’s “Daios Luxury Living” hotel.
Houston there is a bit of a problem and that is my appetite today is not that of a ravenous and deserving young man. I want a simple piece of bread, a bowl of high fat yogurt with some honey dripped over it. I can relive my past and pork out if need be but breakfast of yesteryear I could eat at home in 1971 is nothing today but a liability to process hours later.
So to sum up it all as a tourist in the Greece of today you may be subject to a post 1970’s enhanced hotel Greek breakfast. You may be absolutely delighted with it as there is often an attempt to add local pastries and dishes to a breakfast buffet giving it regional character. It would seem the Greek hoteliers appear to enjoy adding local delicacies, condiments and dishes to hotel breakfast buffets. The bizarre fact is that what may have satisfied me 35 years ago for breakfast has lost almost all historical relevance.
What are the common elements of these 4 different hotel breakfasts I had in Greece this September? Firstly a good selection of local fruit in season which in September includes watermelon, oranges and grapefruit. A selection of fruit juices particularly orange juice. High fat Greek yogurt with toppings such as Greek honey and cherry preserves. Eggs and Feta cheese. Usually a few sweets and lots of good fresh local bread. Expect sliced meats too. Breakfast ordinarily will run from 07:30-10:30.
So expect this “new” modernized breakfast should you be staying in a hotel in Greece. Some 50 years too late for me! And I’d be just as happy with an old-fashioned Greek breakfast. I suppose I have travelled full circle.
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